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Post by MikeH on Jan 9, 2013 4:00:58 GMT -5
Anyone got seeds? Or scion wood? There are a couple listed in Corvallis but I think that it's too late to request them this year.
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Post by blueadzuki on Jan 10, 2013 8:30:40 GMT -5
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Post by steev on Jan 10, 2013 11:54:22 GMT -5
Scions will be coming with the quince.
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Post by MikeH on Jan 10, 2013 12:36:53 GMT -5
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Post by steev on Jan 10, 2013 21:34:48 GMT -5
Yes, I have a Service Tree. Big woop! It's a small (8'), 7 year-old, pest-free tree which has never yet produced a single fruit. Now I learn that if it fruits, I have to blet them! Grump.
What will you graft scions to, or do you suppose they will root?
Some kind of Sorbus is a common street tree here in Oakland; I must gather seeds this year for plants on the farm, where they will make a great show in Fall.
Did I ask whether you wanted scionwood from Cooke's Jumbo quince?
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Post by MikeH on Jan 12, 2013 19:18:30 GMT -5
Yes, I have a Service Tree. Big woop! It's a small (8'), 7 year-old, pest-free tree which has never yet produced a single fruit. Now I learn that if it fruits, I have to blet them! Grump. Cliff England says that it takes 8-10 years to come into production. Not sure yet. Cliff and I are still going back and forth on that. Once I've got that figured out, I'll trench layer and stool since "vegetative propagation by root suckers however, is common, especially on warm and favourable sites." (See the attached pdf) Yes but I'm not sure what I answered. I'll get back to you on that. Attachments:
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Post by MikeH on Jan 12, 2013 20:23:06 GMT -5
From Cliff England,
MH: Would any pear rootstock that is appropriate for European pear work? Bartlett? OHxF 97?
CE: Bartlett seedling or OHxF97 should work well, all pyrus Communis is just select Pear seedling of a standard growth form and height structure with no dwarfing effect.
According to many German References that I have read you can low graft the material and plant the Graft union below the ground about 2 to 5 inches and that will promote the scion wood above the graft union to root I know this to be true for Quince and Medlar but there just is not a lot of information on Sorbus but considering the advantages of the graft union being bel Expandow ground and the scion rooting and never losing the rooted scion to cold and freeze damage it would be logical to think it would.
I have done this with Chestnut, Juglans Regia , Pear, Persimmon when grafted on to Lotus to promote scion rooting as a way to prevent the loss of and the rejection of graft later on. And it is a major/ primary way to replicate Hazelnuts. Once medlar and quince is buried deep to promote rooting one can then harvest sucker in the case of stool bedding or trenching to the same effect.
I've got OHxF 513 that I can graft onto so, yes, please steev, I would love some sorbus scion wood. When do they go dormant for you?
Thanks very much. I'm quite chuffed.
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Post by steev on Jan 13, 2013 23:53:53 GMT -5
MikeH:
It has done; I have cut it; you shall have it. Why does "chuffed" sound like "pooped" to me? English! Such an odd language. P'raps we sh'd try Swahili, eh?
Decide about Cooke's Jumbo quince before I package this stuff up, or it's next year. I've got better material than for Meech's Prolific (though both will be much better next year, after I've planted them out, this year).
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Post by MikeH on Jan 14, 2013 2:14:10 GMT -5
MikeH: It has done; I have cut it; you shall have it. Why does "chuffed" sound like "pooped" to me? English! Such an odd language. P'raps we sh'd try Swahili, eh? I always thought in my ethnocentric way that Ubuntu was Swahili for Fuck Microsoft. Turns out that, in a way, it's exactly that although I had the language wrong. I doubt that MSFT would adopt this as its core value. Next year, please. Thank you, sir for making me discipline myself for the moment. With a dozen hardy, disease resistant apples and a couple of quinces, I've got plenty of grafting. And I've got to put an insurance policy in place on the apples in Joyce's orchard. We have dozen of wild apples in our woods that I can use my "parking" idea - grafting onto any acceptable host trees and then taking scion wood from the grafted scion wood when I have rootstock available - to create backup replacement genetic material. We lost a couple of trees during the orchard's the first year to girdling because we didn't use rodent guards. It cost us +$50 to replace them. It would have cost nothing had I grafted scion wood onto our wild apples.
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Post by steev on Jan 14, 2013 2:55:08 GMT -5
Ubuntu; yes, an admirable concept. Clearly, we do speak the same language, mas o menos, eh?
So for the nonce, you shall have Service-tree cuttings ASAP, and a first-come hold on Meech's Prolific and Cooke's Jumbo quince scions next Winter, at the very least.
Bastard rodents! They seem to think they have right to exist.
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Post by MikeH on Jan 14, 2013 3:48:31 GMT -5
Bastard rodents! They seem to think they have right to exist. They are great educators of slow learners.
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Post by steev on Jan 15, 2013 20:56:10 GMT -5
They haven't taught me so much, and I'm as slow a learner as any. Brainstorm! Warm-blooded snakes, furry, I suppose. Oh, wait, those are ferrets; it's already been done. Never mind.
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Post by Hristo on Jan 18, 2013 4:14:32 GMT -5
Last winter I got 2 named, but non domestica sorbuses and because I had no big enough sorbus rootstock I kept them in the fridge until mid summer. Then decided that it's better to try something than waste them. I know sorbuses are usually compatible with quite a lot species, so I had to choose between pear, crataegus and quince. I decided to graft them on to a quince because I have many suckers on them. At that time both had about 4-5 cm. of new growth. I chip budded these "buds" and one of the varieties (Titan IIRC) took. That said you should be able to find them a good host for a few years.
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Post by MikeH on Jan 18, 2013 9:21:10 GMT -5
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Post by ilex on Jan 27, 2013 10:07:08 GMT -5
Sorbus domestica is usually grafted into itself to speed fruiting. You could graft it to many other related things. They are native here and were a very popular fruit tree at farms. Will survive just about everything as long as it has enough light.
Good fruit tastes like cooked apples.
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