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Post by Deleted on May 18, 2018 11:55:02 GMT -5
Anyone have any expierience double cropping corn with planting a late and early maturing variety at near the same time? Planting the late maturing variety with 3ft in between rows, the early maturing variety with 6 ft between a row (or possibly double row). I,ve been trying to get away with only taking dirt from in between every other row for hilling, leaving a bed between every other corn row, that I never walk down and would plant the early maturing variety there (we,lol see if my corn adapts to my habits, I guess I could adapt later and make every other row spaced 3.5 ft to give more hilling dirt...) . How long does the canopy have to stay open for the corn to produce, at what density could you plant the early maturing corn (maybe gasped flint), so as all will not have to much competition? I figure a shorter late maturing corn might be preferred so it doesn't get tall to quick? Should I maybe give the early maturing corn a few days head start?
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Post by nkline on May 27, 2018 19:06:06 GMT -5
What's the goal? Plant gaspe really early pick it a little wet, tear it up and plant a full season corn, you should have time. Granted you may be a little short on time this year if you do that now.
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Post by Deleted on May 27, 2018 19:19:11 GMT -5
what I'm trying to say is grow gaspe and the full season corn at the same time in the same field. Planting the field at a high density assuming the short season corn will start to mature and use less nitrogen as the full season corn outcompetes it and takes over and needs more nutrients. instead of thinning the plants, the plants will thin themselves as the short season corn matures.
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Post by nkline on May 27, 2018 20:39:54 GMT -5
A few things, as long as your corn patch isn't a puddle... You don't need hills. Your plants should canopy to the extent that there is little light hitting the ground when they are full grown. Population will depend on fertilization, and water availability. Sure you can plant gaspe Flint in-between wider spaced rows and this may be worthwhile if you are moister limited, don't expect this to help you with nutrients to feed the other plants, you will just need more nutrients because your feeding more plants, it may however be worthwhile for water and grain fill for the later plants. Your going to want a fairly short statured longer season corn as you will need some light to get to the gaspe or possibly go with a taller early corn.
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Post by Deleted on May 28, 2018 13:09:13 GMT -5
A little confused about the hilling, last year was my first year gardening a good bit, I grew Dakota black popcorn, I don't like hilling so I didn't hill it till it fell over (was still small) then I hilled and it stood till harvest. A grew hickory king a little later in the year giving it half a hill (hope that makes sense both sides of stalk are still hilled) it stood till a hurricane blew them down (upstate sc so not right on the coast or anything). Am I doing something wrong, I don't compact the soil around the plants much, idk if it helps a bit compacted to stand or something? A little hesitant when it seems they like to fall.
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Post by Joseph Lofthouse on May 28, 2018 13:21:02 GMT -5
I hill corn sometimes at my place. However, I do it as a weed control measure, not to prevent lodging. If I hill the corn when it is about 4 inches high, and the weeds are an inch high, then the dirt will smother the weed seedlings, and I don't have to weed again during the growing season.
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Post by Deleted on May 28, 2018 13:29:44 GMT -5
I figured I may try a variety of short season corn underneath mesquakie Indian for next year atleast, gaspe, tohono oodham, tarahumara apachito, Navajo copper and see if any do well enough. Any other that may fit the bill? I'm trying tohono oodham and apachito this year to see how well they like the southeast.
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Post by Deleted on May 28, 2018 14:05:42 GMT -5
I've been planting 2 inches deep this is deep enough?
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Post by richardw on May 28, 2018 14:35:33 GMT -5
I do half that depth
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Post by Joseph Lofthouse on May 28, 2018 15:10:05 GMT -5
My target planting depth for corn is 1.5 inches. I feel good with anything between 1 and 2.5.
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Post by reed on May 28, 2018 21:25:06 GMT -5
I shoot for two inches but don't make much effort toward precision. I try not to go shallow though cause it is too easy for the birds to pull up. I imagine seeds end up anywhere between 2 and 4 inches deep.
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Post by nkline on May 29, 2018 16:09:01 GMT -5
We farm and shoot for 1.5 to 3 inches planting depth on corn. You may want to make sure your plant are getting enough potassium to help with your lodging issue. You could also make sure you don't have root worms, or corn stalk borers. Lower corn population will help with lodging but will be harder to keep the weeds out of.
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Post by Deleted on May 29, 2018 19:48:39 GMT -5
Is the prevention for root worms just planting a resistant variety? I do have stalk boreres I believe. Is there a relative way to know when they emerge in gdd? Or pheromone traps to know when to spray, (but that type of lodging looks different) it's been so wet lately for doing any type of spraying anyways, or is just seeing their tell tell mark on leaves when you start?. Potassium should be ok, I got a soil test.
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Post by nkline on May 29, 2018 23:44:26 GMT -5
Is the prevention for root worms just planting a resistant variety? I do have stalk boreres I believe. Is there a relative way to know when they emerge in gdd? Or pheromone traps to know when to spray, (but that type of lodging looks different) it's been so wet lately for doing any type of spraying anyways, or is just seeing their tell tell mark on leaves when you start?. Potassium should be ok, I got a soil test. You could plant seed with an insecticide on it or put an insecticide in furrow with it not sure what is available on a small scale. You can look at Beetles to see if you have corn borers or do root diggings. Stalk borers will be out fairly soon after it warms up to the 80's. Are your stalks breaking, or folding over, or is it falling over at the roots, how soon is it doing this, are you getting disease?
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Post by Deleted on Jun 1, 2018 12:52:06 GMT -5
Some stalk are folding towards the top, I understand those as corn borer damage, hopefully I will still get corn out of some of them for where it's bent seems high, I suspect (but do not know) if they produce seed, they should be less likely to be inbred for the pollen was certainly donated by another? I do seen cucumber beetles, now that I know I have to look for another bug, both striped and dotted I believe. I had a lot of flea beetle pressure earlier in spring, I thought I had Stewart's wilt but I believe the damage was actually sugarcane beetles( they are recovering), I know I had quite a few plants lost to them. Do corn borer have continuous generation past emergence and I should spray often, of once the emerge there is a period of pressure when spraying is needed, then less pressure and resurgence in pest pressure. Should I be burning or chopping finely old stalks? If so How finely? I was planning on trying not to till much. The roatation goin corn, cowpea (possible later okra (wide spacing) planting with cowpeas), cereal rye, upland rice, cereal rye, peanuts/soy, daikon/rape, back to corn. I understand I should terminate brassica and till 30 or so days before planting corn. Is tilling really recommended much more than that to end bugs life cycles? Will the brassica only exacerbate the problem of the flea beetles, would trap cropping some of them be affective. I planted early my late planting emerged the day after our last frost.i feel this was good, but i should have sprayed flea beetle earlier, (it also worked perfect as far as rain went) I feel my collards may have been the reason for high flea beetle damage. Will rye spread disease to the corn by being near it, this garden is only 3000 sq ft. As far as I know the only disease I,be had is rust. Any other possible flaws in design? Will high crop residue be destructive?
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