|
Post by philagardener on Aug 25, 2015 19:20:49 GMT -5
reed , looks real nice now! Thanks for figuring that out for us!
|
|
|
Post by philagardener on Aug 25, 2015 19:13:17 GMT -5
|
|
|
Post by philagardener on Aug 24, 2015 20:11:49 GMT -5
Hi reed , your media wasn't loading for me.
|
|
|
Post by philagardener on Aug 24, 2015 20:09:07 GMT -5
oldmobie , at the moment is the only airflow through your incubator convective exchange (hot rises, cold sinks) through that port at the top? I looked at the specs for this model on line and the door is sealed with a gasket and I don't think there is any air entry at the bottom. This is because it is an incubator, built to hold the set temperature, not a drier. As a result, you put your seed in and it gets very humid inside and mostly sits there and doesn't dry very effectively. (Not to take away from your tumber - that is a very creative alternative solution!) One thing you might try (if there is no vent to open at the bottom) is to run a cheap aquarium air pump hose into that top vent to increase the air changes (the warmed, humid air will rise out the top port - you are just driving some cooler, drier air into the unit). That should help increase the rate at which your seeds dry.
|
|
|
Post by philagardener on Aug 23, 2015 6:39:07 GMT -5
Welcome, andyb ! Fun project that will grow on you! Do you get Late Blight in your garden every year? Otherwise, it is going to be hard to know which plants are carrying resistance alleles. Sounds like a great project in any case!
|
|
|
Post by philagardener on Aug 22, 2015 14:05:36 GMT -5
In my experience, the term "wax bean" is applied to varieties of yellow, round-podded snap beans that have a smooth, waxy appearance. I've recently grown several bush types (Pencil Pod Wax, Cherokee Wax, Improved Golden Wax); some have black seeds while others are white seeded (IGW has a very attractive brown patch around the hilum). I don't know if these varieties are related to each other or independently derived, and I too have wondered what emerges when you cross a wax bean with a green podded bean. Maybe it is a single gene trait, with yellow recessive to green, and shows up from time to time as a spontaneous mutation in regular varieties. I occasionally see Dragon's Tongue called a wax bean, but I never have heard the term applied to beans with background pod colors of green, purple or red. I guess I am just trying to understand if "wax bean" is more than a name (and maybe it isn't).
There are yellows that are not referred to as wax beans, although that the ones that come to mind (Gold of Bacau, Gold Marie) are lumped with Romano beans for their flattened pods. They do seem a distinct group.
|
|
|
Post by philagardener on Aug 22, 2015 5:58:06 GMT -5
Were the wax beans you were growing black (dark purple) or white? I grow both kinds.
I'm guessing the former might explain the color in those seeds.
Does anyone know the genetic basis for "a wax bean"? Single gene for pod color? Do they also have a hairless pod trait, like greasy beans, or is that variable?
|
|
|
Post by philagardener on Aug 21, 2015 16:40:19 GMT -5
Excess foliage may result from the nitrogen in that manure; good compost should be more balanced in its nutrients.
|
|
|
Post by philagardener on Aug 19, 2015 6:10:39 GMT -5
Thinking along those lines, what size is your largest pot :>)
|
|
|
Post by philagardener on Aug 19, 2015 6:09:06 GMT -5
Pretty incredible growth there! Each plant needs a lot of leaf surface to support those huge fruit.
|
|
|
Post by philagardener on Aug 18, 2015 17:42:40 GMT -5
I'm waiting for cooler weather to relocate some of mine so I don't force them into growth with the stress of pruning/moving. Probably late October or early November for me.
|
|
|
Post by philagardener on Aug 18, 2015 17:34:19 GMT -5
Drainage is critical. If you are growing in sand, might be OK although you could have more foliar disease issues. If you are growing in clay, the tubers may rot, leaving your stew without potatoes . . .
|
|
|
Post by philagardener on Aug 18, 2015 6:21:09 GMT -5
Welcome, andyb ! Start small and work up! You are in a great location. Glad to have you join us!
|
|
|
Post by philagardener on Aug 17, 2015 6:34:23 GMT -5
Stew carefully about your options . . . It is important to know which diseases are involved and how they are transmitted. If you have a good county extension agent, they could be a resource for you. Many pathogens don't travel by seed, and effective treatments differ for those that do (for example, viruses vs. bacteria). Surface treatments with warm (controlled temperature) water or a dilute bleach solution can be helpful; I'd suggest treating right before sowing the seed, although you can carefully redry the treated seed for storage (test anything on a small batch first). Here is a "how-to" instruction sheet from OSU; skip the Thriam at the end. I have not tried these approaches but they might help you out. Note that Chlorox recently was reformulated to change the the bleach concentration, so check your labels. Good luck!
|
|
|
Post by philagardener on Aug 16, 2015 11:40:51 GMT -5
Glad you can speak of that brush fire in the past tense!
|
|