I've heard of Chamber of Death peas before. I was under the impression some of the Oregon bred snow peas came about from that trial and were bred with those resistance genes. (Oregon Sugar Pod II and/or Oregon Giant?)
Galina, 'Chamber of Death' was our nickname for it on an aussie forum. The exact details of it's provenance remain obscure, suffice to say it came out of a disease testing greenhouse (the chamber of death) where pea lines were being tested for disease resistance - it was the stand out survivor.
T: Farthest North is from NorHem; you're in Oz; I shouldn't have to point this out; they're prolly trying to grow underground, poor things.
Ahhh, I see. Do you think burying a heap of fridge magnets might help?
Since we are talking melons, in Joseph's thread, I should add that his bush melon is continuing to grow and flower, altho it hasn't got any fertilised flowers. This well after the FN have shriveled and died.
This bush melon is an awkward, odd looking plant. I think i might come to love it tho. T
galina, Jupiter is low fibre - the OG cross is about getting sweet green peas inside the swelling pod. And a bit bigger pod. Jupiter is highly disease resistant - it was bred out of 'Chamber of Death', the best survivor from a plant testing trial. at least for Aussie diseases. T
look forward to your results. I've been selecting out of Farthest North for a number of years now, but the line I'm on while good seems to have reduced sweetness and flavor compared to some of the others i've grown in previous years. If I can select deeper colored seeds out of my previously saved seed batches that would be a good thing. T
Thinking of a trip to southern italy and coastal croatia in september/october. Any must-see garden/vege growing sites I need to start dropping hints about? While i won't be acquiring any seeds for myself, anything to keep an eye out for others? T
Last Edit: Mar 20, 2017 3:36:10 GMT -5 by templeton
Not sure where to post this question, so I'll post here. Has anyone growing canteloupe ever noticed a variance in color on the better tasting melons? It may be coincidental but I have been saving seed from all the great tasting melons, as well as the not so great(I eat the seeds..) but I noticed recently that the seeds in my "good melon" stash tend to me a more orange color than the "bad melon" seeds. Any thoughts on this? If there was a correlation, that would make seed selection easier.... Lol
@steveb I think the colour intensifies as they sit in the ripening melon. So if they spend a greater time in the melon as you wait for it to ripen they get a deeper colour. This based on my observations of harvesting seed from over-ripe melons. Not entirely sure - perhaps check it out this summer and see if it's true. T
I think the pod size with snaps is related to tight linkage between the thick wall characteristic and the pod length gene. that is, they are close together on the same chromosome, so random variation is less likely to give a long, thick walled pod. I do like Carol Deppe's approach tho - ignore the thick pod wall, and search for a low fibre, sweet eating pod that is still good eating when the peas are swollen in the pod. She recommends Oregon Giant. I'm growing out F1 crosses to my purple at the moment.
galina I got deep red thick podded peas last winter but had mis- scored the parents, and all the progeny had fibre. I'm skipping the snaps for a while. I have got in about 20 F1 seeds of my purple snow Jupiter crossed to Oregon Giant, so something interesting might come out of them. My hypertendril yellow snows will have to wait for a season or two - was getting close, but ran out of room to grow them this autumn. Still wondering how to distribute my finished lines now that i have kilos of seed. T
i sowed a few weeks ago, richardw, soak overnight, then into peat pots so i could keep an eye on them. Grew them on in labelled trays in the shade at the back of the house. and yeah, they get away pretty quickly. I've got 70% shade draped over them for the first week or so, just while they get established, keeps the hot wind off them as much as the sun.
hey Galina, I just planted out my December harvested red mangetouts. about 6 different lines i think, 12 plants each. The summer harvest was dreadful, and too late to taste them, so I'm just going with 'crushable pod' and redness. I actually like the half reds better than the full deep reds, so I'm happy to get whatever. More than half the lines are dwarf, too. I'm really hoping i can get a crop off before winter - so starting a few weeks earlier than i have in the past. 31C 32C 29C for the next few days - and I'm planting peas? T
Trop, Greek Witness is a big red beefteak that is a little taller than wide. Might be a useful parent if you are intent on a particular outcome. otherwise, sit back and enjoy the diversity ride. You can accelerate the process in the first year - If you crossed this year, and already have seed, sow a few and try to get a plant to fruit over winter. Can you get them to overwinter up in SEQ? - doesn't have to do anything except produce a dozen of so viable seeds - you aren't interested in the phenotype of the F1 (apart from looking to see if your cross was successful, and not a normal self-pollination). All the fun starts in the F2, which with your winter grown fruit you can start to sow next spring.
Last Edit: Mar 13, 2017 22:22:39 GMT -5 by templeton