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Post by canadamike on Nov 25, 2008 4:13:25 GMT -5
I go for the dripping/aerial roots feeding. There is no lack of calcium around here. Waterlogging inhibits calcium intake, not organisms. And we sure had our share of waterlogged soil in the last 3 years. / years ago, we lost all but 50 plants out of 600. We had to walk on long wood 2 x 10 that we used as bridges over ''lakes'' of water. Inoundations came 2 years ago for 1.5 month, and it rained all the time last season...
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Post by paquebot on Nov 25, 2008 16:56:53 GMT -5
BER is a condition, not a disease. It's like breaking a leg, not an influenza. I like to explain it like plumbing. It's a valve that sticks shut and won't allow anything through it. Eventually something further along the circuit has to run empty. However, valve repair or a bypass line has already been installed by the time that happens. Then the entire circuit flows as normal again. What that means is that by the time you see BER, the plant has already taken the measures to correct it. One can do absolutely nothing or everything and the results will be the same.
If you have trouble understanding "condition", it's simply that. Conditions are something that may be controlled or corrected such as wet, dry, hot, cold, sun, shade, etc. BER in tomatoes can be prevented by supplying sufficient available calcium in the soil and proper care of the plant. Failure of either will place them in jeopardy.
Martin
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Post by PapaVic on Nov 25, 2008 17:36:04 GMT -5
So ... is congestive heart failure a condition or a disease?
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Post by lavandulagirl on Nov 25, 2008 18:15:14 GMT -5
Sandbar - remind me again... what kind of soil do you have when it's unamended? The issue won't just be how much calcium, but how much exchangeable calcium you have available. Instead of adding the calcium itself, you may just need to amend soil to free up what is already there. This approach may be less time consuming and expensive than you think, in relation to the foliar sprays.
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Post by grunt on Nov 25, 2008 22:51:50 GMT -5
Lav: That is just what I was trying to say using too many words. ;D
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Post by lavandulagirl on Nov 25, 2008 23:10:10 GMT -5
Lav: That is just what I was trying to say using too many words. ;D
My brevity in that post was due to the fact that the 13 year old and the 10 year old were clamoring for me to play UNO with them... it's amazing how well something gets phrased around here when there's yammering going on in the background.
Hope the head cold is better, by the way. Have a hot toddy and sit by the fire. Doctor's orders... |
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Post by sandbar on Nov 27, 2008 23:48:29 GMT -5
Hi Lav,
The soil is a well-drained loam.
I bought some Epsoma Epsom Salt last year, but did not use it because I read somewhere that if it was applied improperly the "salt" would burn the root system.
So, if you folks are using epsom salts as a chelating agent, could you tell me specifically how you apply it to the plant?
I had considered mixing some with compost and putting that in the transplant hole before dropping the seedling in. Is that a good idea?
How much epsom salt do you use per transplant?
TIA.
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Post by sandbar on Nov 28, 2008 0:01:30 GMT -5
High soil temperatures or soil that is too wet, will both lock up a large portion of the calcium that is there, as far as the plant is concerned. Part of the problem is that the plant is putting on new growth at a fairly high rate, and siphons off much of the available calcium to service that end. With tomatoes, I only have BER problems with the first flush of fruit. It stops being a problem as the second flush of fruit comes on. I was thinking that the soil was too cool and that interfered with calcium uptake, however that must not be the case as you mentioned above. Calcium Nitrate ... used as a foliar spray or soil drench? |
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Post by canadamike on Nov 28, 2008 0:17:38 GMT -5
I think it should be soil drench now that we know about calcium intake from the leaves.
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Post by lavandulagirl on Nov 29, 2008 10:10:42 GMT -5
Sandbar - this would be a terrific time of year to get that soil sample analyzed, since you've got little or nothing in the ground out there. Calcium deficiency isn't generally a problem if your pH is good. However, if the pH is high, the rate of calcium exchange can be lowered, as well as evidence of having other reduced infiltration issues.
Perhaps gypsum would work for you? It will build calcium levels without changing the pH, at least not much.
Here's an article you might find useful: www.spectrumanalytic.com/support/library/ff/Ca_Basics.htm
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Post by grunt on Nov 29, 2008 22:36:32 GMT -5
Sandbar: We broadcast it on the beds with the other amendments in the spring, and it gets turned under then. How ever, it is very readily dissolved, so you could add it to the soil surface and water it in. We generally throw on about three handfulls per row section (about 30 square feet), so if you were to dissolve it and pour it on directly, that gives you a rough idea of proportion.
We add it almost every year, as it lowers the soil ph a little, and our soil is almost dead neutral.
Cheers
Dan
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Post by sandbar on Dec 1, 2008 1:09:20 GMT -5
I think it should be soil drench now that we know about calcium intake from the leaves. Thanks, yeah ... duh ... you'd think I'd remember what Martin and Bill posted about 6 posts earlier ...  Never mind ... burning the midnight oil on writing a personal doctrinal statement and studying in preparation for ordination as a pastor next Sunday ... mind is not remembering all the details anymore ...  |
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Post by sandbar on Dec 1, 2008 1:12:19 GMT -5
Lav/Dan, thanks for the advice. Will have to come back to this thread later this week when I'm rested enough to think again.
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Post by grungy on Dec 1, 2008 2:08:58 GMT -5
Congatulations, Sandbar. Hope your big day goes well for you.
grungy and grunt
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