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Post by raymondo on Jan 18, 2009 6:18:58 GMT -5
I was reading woodchuck's bokashi site (great info, thanks) and got to thinking about the process. Would it be possible to have a bokashi-like system that used the lactobacillus serum/whey direct? By that I mean sprinkle/spray some serum directly on the chopped up waste. It would need to be a smallish layer of course, not very deep. Cover each layer as you go with newspaper. What do you think? Would it work?
In the homemade bokashi starter made from whey, could vegetable whey (rejuvelac) be used instead of yoghurt whey?
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Post by woodchuck on Jan 18, 2009 10:45:11 GMT -5
I was reading woodchuck's bokashi site (great info, thanks) and got to thinking about the process. Would it be possible to have a bokashi-like system that used the lactobacillus serum/whey direct? By that I mean sprinkle/spray some serum directly on the chopped up waste. It would need to be a smallish layer of course, not very deep. Cover each layer as you go with newspaper. What do you think? Would it work? Yes, that certainly will work. In the homemade bokashi starter made from whey, could vegetable whey (rejuvelac) be used instead of yoghurt whey? Yes, rejuvelac will work instead of the whey. I'm planning a major website overhaul that'll include info on using rejuvelac since many vegetarians (vegans) won't use whey. <Woodchuck> |
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Post by lavandulagirl on Jan 18, 2009 13:53:17 GMT -5
Thanks for the info, Woodchuck! Moneyman has access to lactobacillus culture through work, and I will be trying this method soon.
I have a couple questions... Is the size of the bucket imperative? (ie: is the size you used optimal, or could a larger one work?) Are there things you wouldn't add to this style of compost? (The compost bucket I currently keep in the kitchen receives coffee grounds, for example.)
Moneyman says the culture starts to die off at about 105 degrees, so I won't be direct layering it, I don't think. (The way Raymondo was asking about.) In the summer here, it isn't unusual to have weeks over 100. But I'd like an idea for getting enough of this done to eventually work at least 2 acres of ag space. (I won't be doing that much this year, so it isn't a rush.)
So - is this a project involving a bazillion 5 gallon buckets? Or would I be better off, as Moneyman thinks, considering growing the lactobacillus for my use in larger drums, and working out a different direct-layering method from there?
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Post by raymondo on Jan 18, 2009 14:57:37 GMT -5
Thanks woodchuck. I'll check your web site from time to time for the update.
Enough to cover 2 acres? That sounds like a big project lavandulagirl.
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Post by woodchuck on Jan 19, 2009 13:06:44 GMT -5
I have a couple questions... Is the size of the bucket imperative? (ie: is the size you used optimal, or could a larger one work?) For normal quantities of kitchen compost it's best to stick with an airtight container in the 5-6 gallon range. If the container is too big the waste may not off-gas enough to maintain an anaerobic environment, especially early on, and the bucket may fail. Are there things you wouldn't add to this style of compost? (The compost bucket I currently keep in the kitchen receives coffee grounds, for example.) I don't add pet waste, fats (and oils), anything spoiled or anything excessively salty (the salt is bad for the worms and plants) Moneyman says the culture starts to die off at about 105 degrees, so I won't be direct layering it, I don't think. (The way Raymondo was asking about.) In the summer here, it isn't unusual to have weeks over 100. But I'd like an idea for getting enough of this done to eventually work at least 2 acres of ag space. (I won't be doing that much this year, so it isn't a rush.) Interesting thoughts..... This year I plan too 'bokashi' all lawn clippings and garden waste (in 55 gallon sealable drums) and add it to expanded worm beds. I learned a long time ago that low temperature composting is the way to compost when maximum available nutrients are the goal. I got started with vermiculture a long time ago, vermiculture ALWAYS produces compost far superior to high heat methods. Bokashi compliments vermiculture. I noticed at a neighbors farm a few years ago that compost worms were thriving in corn silage that had spilled down around the outside of the silo, I had always read that acidity was bad for worms and that they wouldn't do well in low PH, turns out that was a lie, not only were they thriving they were converting the fermented silage into castings at a rapid rate. It wasn't long after that that I stumbled upon the bokashi thing while searching composting videos on youtube. I immediately said to myself, all this is is ensiling, it was then that I started experimenting. So, not only is the bokashi broken down fairly rapidly by the worms, the waste is also stabilized for long periods of time so I can ration it out to the worms. I only wish I had more worms to work with. There are other advantages.....bokashi is impregnated with digestive bacteria, mostly lactobacillus so it breaks down very rapidly.....convenience.....there are minimal foul smells......no fruit flies or other varmints.......for those living in colder climates the stabilized bokashi compost can be banked in winter months and added to worm bins, regular compost piles or buried in the ground or containers in the spring...to name a few....... So - is this a project involving a bazillion 5 gallon buckets? Or would I be better off, as Moneyman thinks, considering growing the lactobacillus for my use in larger drums, and working out a different direct-layering method from there? [/color][/quote] I use just two 5 gallon buckets for my kitchen bokashi. I fill one while the previous one is 'maturing'. For large quantities of compost I plan to use 55 gallon sealable barrels. <Woodchuck> |
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Post by cff on Jan 19, 2009 21:08:33 GMT -5
Woodchuck"
Would wheat bran work as well as rice bran for the water solution?
I have easy access large amounts of wheat bran or (wheat midds) free.
Nice web page you have going there too
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Post by woodchuck on Jan 19, 2009 21:11:58 GMT -5
Woodchuck" Would wheat bran work as well as rice bran for the water solution? I have easy access large amounts of wheat bran or (wheat midds) free. Nice web page you have going there too Yes, wheat bran will work just fine. <Woodchuck> |
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Post by cff on Jan 19, 2009 21:14:38 GMT -5
Cool beans - I had a truck drop about 1000 lbs today (leftovers from his last load) that had to be removed from the truck before we could load him. We do this two or three times a week  Anyone need a wheat bran sample ? Woodchuck" Would wheat bran work as well as rice bran for the water solution? I have easy access large amounts of wheat bran or (wheat midds) free. Nice web page you have going there too Yes, wheat bran will work just fine. <Woodchuck> |
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Post by raymondo on Feb 16, 2009 15:41:53 GMT -5
I normally don't put cooked food into my worm bins as it seems to attract unwelcome visitors. I was wondering whether I could first put such scraps through a bokashi system. Would that render them less palatable to the undesirables? I'm thinking here of bread, cooked vegetables, meat scraps and so on. And the undesirables are house fly maggots, rats, nosey dogs and so on.
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Post by Alan on Feb 17, 2009 19:15:05 GMT -5
Howdy Woodchuck, when you get a chance if you don't mind, put a link to your site in the footer of your profile for easy access my friend! Keep up the good work!
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