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Post by raymondo on Jun 13, 2010 4:36:04 GMT -5
I'd say the chances of them crossing are pretty high, as beets are wind pollinated.
I don't know about the longevity of the plants. I've never left them after flowering to find out. Theoretically though, they should die, but I prefer to experience these things first hand before commenting.
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Post by mnjrutherford on Jun 14, 2010 10:35:36 GMT -5
hmmm... ok... Do you think that having them cross will be good, bad, or indifferent? They don't appear to be even close to flowering at this point in time. Considering that I want to use the roots for fodder, should I pull them before flowering? Or will it be ok to wait until they've flowered and I've collected the seed?
Speaking of collecting the seed, how DO you collect the seed from this type of plant? I've got spinach that is now drying down and I'm hoping that by collecting THOSE seed, I'll be prepared to collect the beet seed as well.
By the by, I don't think I've ever had better tasting greens. I like them Italian style best with a bit of sauteed onion and garlic confit with a touch (JUST a touch) of balsamic vinegar. I also prepped them this way without the vinegar and used them to top a pizza. Oh man! That was OUTRAGEOUS!!! I used a generous amount of garlic confit in the dough as well and the garlic and the greens have the most incredible interplay of flavors.
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Post by raymondo on Jun 15, 2010 6:24:52 GMT -5
I love greens prepared that way ... yummm.
I don't know either of the varieties you're growing but if you're not fussed about keeping them pure then I see no reason not to let them have their way. You may just end up with something really interesting. Presuming one is red, then crossed seeds from the golden variety will be red. Any that are golden will be selfings. Can't say anything about the seed from the red variety, except that it will produce red offspring regardless of whether or not it crossed with the golden. As usual, it will be the F2 generation that provides the interesting variations.
I'm guessing here but if you want to maximise the nutrient value in the root for the stock then you'll probably need to pull them before they flower. Others more experienced may have a more definitive answer.
Collecting beet seed is much easier than spinach. For a start, the plants are hermaphrodite, unlike most spinach plants, so you can collect from all plants. Just wait until the seed starts to dry down. I usually only harvest the earlier, larger seed from low down. Just grip the stem between thumb and fingers and slide along the stem. The seeds, actually corky fruits, come away easily when dry.
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Post by mjc on Jun 15, 2010 11:24:00 GMT -5
Collecting beet seed is much easier than spinach. For a start, the plants are hermaphrodite, unlike most spinach plants, so you can collect from all plants. Just wait until the seed starts to dry down. I usually only harvest the earlier, larger seed from low down. Just grip the stem between thumb and fingers and slide along the stem. The seeds, actually corky fruits, come away easily when dry. If your hands aren't leather tough...then wear a glove while doing this. Beat seed isn't exactly smooth and 'easy' on the skin. |
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Post by mnjrutherford on Jul 16, 2010 12:54:40 GMT -5
I planted Martin's Golden Eckdorf and Mammoth Red seed on April 17th of this year. On June 17th, I posted on this thread about eating the greens from these plants. Exquisite flavor! Today, I pulled about a dozen plants. Mostly the GE, a couple MR. We fed a few to the birds. They seem to like radish better.
With the rest, I intend to scrub well, slice thinly, and boil slowly. When soft, I will pour off the liquid to a second pot and evaporate over very low heat. From what I've read, I expect a line of crystals to appear on the sides of the pot as the moisture evaporates. The crystals are supposedly what I should collect and use as sugar. I also expect to have a dark, residual syrup. Some remarks say this is unpalatable and should used as feed. We'll sample it and make a decision from that point.
The cooked beets will be placed in a cheesecloth lined strainer and weighed down to extract as much liquid as possible. The extracted liquid will go to the evaporation pot. It was suggested that the resulting mash be dried and added to animal feed. I'm thinking that is a good idea.
I want to get more seed. However, none of these plants, nor any of those remaining in the garden, appear to be bolting. Is this odd?
I did not use all of the original seed. I'm planning to put the rest out in a day or so unless someone tells me I'm clean out of my mind if I do.
Thanks for the seed Martin! This is my number 2 big winner new plant this year. Garlic being number 1. These beets have it all over any other plants with regard to multi tasking. Especially if the sugar making experiment is successful.
I really appreciate all the input from everyone. I hope that I can add these seed to my catalog for sharing this fall!!!
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Post by grunt on Jul 16, 2010 13:58:56 GMT -5
Jo: They're a biennial. If the roots have a bit of size to them, you might be able to fool them into bolting for you later this year by pulling a couple and storing them in the fridge for a couple of weeks, then replanting. You might also be able to force them to bolt but subjecting them to near drought conditions (if you can).
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Post by mnjrutherford on Jul 16, 2010 19:20:37 GMT -5
ahhh HA! I was beginning to think that was the case Dan. If I can get some more seed (Martin, can I purchase some more of these from you?) I'll simply allow about a half dozen of the biggest and best to remain in ground and do their thing naturally. If I can't source them, THEN I'll try to force a few AND leave a few.
This is such an excellent plant, I can't imagine why it isn't more popular.
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Post by paquebot on Jul 18, 2010 23:28:39 GMT -5
Grunt's right in that all beets are biennials. In the lower half of the US, they can be left in the ground with minimal protection. Where the ground freezes, they are stored in a cool area and replanted in the spring. Applies to the entire B. vulgaris clan. Beets are wind-pollinated but I don't to scare anyone into not trying to save seeds by stating the distance required for absolute purity, two to five miles! I've only grown regular beets and red mangels for seed but not at the same time.
Also, young mangels are little different from red beets for human consumption. What's lacking is the often "earthy" taste of red beets. I like the red much more than the gold and find the same is true when red beets are compared with yellow beets. There's just something "non-beet" about any non-red beet, if that makes sense.
Main reason why mangels aren't as popular as they are is due to their use as fodder. There seems to be some stigma about sharing your animals feed. Mangels have long been a high-protein winter feed for all stock animals. They are becoming a little popular again in the US but mostly in areas where sugar beets are also grown. Some farmers get the beet pulp from the mills and note how great it is for their stock. Then their neighbors look into growing their own. Due to the extra work involved, it will never replace hay ensilage as winter feed but it's an excellent alternative which may feed the farmer's family as well.
Martin
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Post by Joseph Lofthouse on Jul 19, 2010 0:07:36 GMT -5
Grunt's right in that all beets are biennials. I have noticed on my farm that about 1 beet in 1000 (Detroit Dark Red) will grow as an annual: Come up from seed and immediately flower the same summer. I treat them as weeds. I certainly wouldn't want to develop an annual beet for my garden: Radishes give me fits. When I was living in Ohio I ate Michigan potatoes. Then one day I splurged and bought Idaho potatoes. They tasted just like the dirt from back home... Regards, Joseph |
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Post by WesTex on Jul 29, 2010 9:06:54 GMT -5
I'm interested in growing sugar beets and processing them for sugar (just because it sounds totally fun). I can't wait to hear how your beets did when you boiled them down! I have been hunting around for sugar beet varieties and they are like SUPER hard to come by. Not to mention, that there's been this whole GMO sugar beet fiasco up on the west coast/oregon mostly... I saw the recommendation for Early Yellow Intermediate Mangels Beet from bountiful gardens. They have a white beet too there that they say is good for sugar. Anyone else know a good variety (preferably heirloom) that they've used for sugar making purposes?
EDITED:
On another note: I was reading up about seed saving for beets. Seems they have loverly weedy neighbors they can mix with as well as with each other. Their pollen is super small and wind pollinated. While researching seed saving techniques, I come across "Windproof Fabric" as being necessary for caging and not crossing beets. Now, at first thought, i'm like Reemay! But if reemay is too porous to keep corn from crossing, doesn't that indicated it might be too porous to keep beets from crossing? What's a girl to do!? Suggestions please?
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