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Post by Hristo on Jun 17, 2011 7:30:22 GMT -5
Ray, in the large scale method of grafting they cut the cotyledons of the rootstock and graft on to the stump, but I graft them just as aednik for the same reason - I too think that more leaves lead to better results (growth). I suppose the reason they remove them is because that way of grafting is easier and faster to do. When cotyledons of the rootstock are left you must remove the buds of the rootstock and often you think you removed them, but a few days latter you find out there is still some buds left, so you need to recheck all the plants and cut the remaining buds. This potential extra work is not worth for them.
Btw, search YouTube for vegetable/watermelon grafting
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Post by raymondo on Jun 17, 2011 19:11:14 GMT -5
Thanks for that Hristo. I checked out a few grafting videos and they were very helpful.
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Post by Hristo on Jun 26, 2011 15:30:10 GMT -5
Just found this document, while searching for something else: mbao.org/2008/060Besri.pdfSome really good info is there in. Unfortunately my concern about fruit quality may be fact: "Grafting could have many disadvantages on the fruit quality e.g. shape, appearance, taste, coloration, internal decay." Finding the best combination between scion-rootstock variety which will give the best fruit quality is not so easy task, lots of trials will be needed.
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Post by aednik on Jun 28, 2011 1:28:43 GMT -5
... Finding the best combination between scion-rootstock variety .... You're absolutely right! Actually, good rootstock varieties have been bred - only it occurs to be extremely difficult for hobby growers to obtain them. I managed to get only Citrullus hybr. rootstock for watermelons so far (Knight). Thus, I've xperimented with different other things. As I've read, especially from Russian sources, that summer squashes and Cucurbita ficifolia are good rootstocks for both melons and watermelons. Alas - my this year's experience shows that this probably is not true. They may be good for certain varieties - but definitely not for all. I hoped much from the Russian summer squash 'Gribovski' ( it should be very tolerant to wet and cold soils) - but none of the 5 varieties did succeed on it. I also tried 'Tigress' and 'Plato'. Tigress as a rootstock seems also be a complete disaster: though initially plants grew very well, after several weeks they stopped to grow at all and now, they are just dying now. 'Plato' as a rootstock seems to behave better - at least so far. Cucurbita ficifolia is puzzling me - some plants are growing nicely and some are dying, no matter of which variety the graft is. Front left: Sun Jewel / Tigress; back left: Savor / Plato; front right: Typhoon / Knight Both Blacktail Mountain plants are grafted onto Cucurbita ficifolia. Note the unnatural fruitlet shapes on the plant right.
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Post by steev on Jun 28, 2011 13:49:37 GMT -5
This is fascinating. It looks like very good bad-weather work to keep productive in early Spring; all the more reason I must build a greenhouse.
It would be great to have a database of rootstock-scion combinations with their effects on growth and fruit firmness.
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Post by canadamike on Jun 28, 2011 22:29:41 GMT -5
Aednick: glad to see you here buddy. I am not around as much as «i used too, my life outside the net does not permit it.... One thing: why a guy in Estonia would want to grow Blactail Mountain? I have an immense respect for its breeder, but darn, is it ever that good or is it my climate?? I get much better results with Canada Early, both in taste and productivity. As for grafting, I really like the idea of a database of some sort. It would help tremendously. I know PETIT GRIS DE RENNES melons are grafted in France, I sure would love to know on what.Melon grafting could sure play a great role in marginal areas, as it does in Northern France...
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Post by Joseph Lofthouse on Jun 28, 2011 23:50:19 GMT -5
One thing: why a guy in Estonia would want to grow Blactail Mountain? I have an immense respect for its breeder, but darn, is it ever that good or is it my climate?? Blacktail Mountain grows barely in my garden, but the wimpy plants manage to produce very ripe fruits weeks before my killing frost. Eventually, I'll incorporate it into a landrace, and hopefully add some vigor to the earliness.
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Post by ottawagardener on Jun 29, 2011 8:42:56 GMT -5
That is impressive and I was wondering the same, if a native curcurbit would work. Worth a try next year.
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Post by pierre on Jul 2, 2011 9:31:32 GMT -5
When culture is difficult owing to soil deseases or nematodes or cold soils grafting is a solution. Many tens of years ago grafting on Benincasa was a standard procedure for greenhouse cucumbers (hundreds of hectars) in Holland where I spent days at it.
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Post by 12540dumont on Jul 2, 2011 15:31:28 GMT -5
I plant Blacktail Watermelon, because I usually get it at the end of July, where as the other melons aren't coming on until August and continue through October. It may not be as great as a Grover Delaney or Ali Baba, but it makes folks happy. It's a great size. As you can see, the watermelons are way behind the other melons, even though they were set out on the same day 5/28. Last year I grew Bidwell Casaba. A HUGE melon. Enough for a man with 7 wives. It took forever. It was absolutely delicious. But, it's just too big. I'd love for someone to grow this and develop it into a smaller melon. It was relatively disease free, but took 4 months to produce melons. Earlier and smaller that's my trend with melons. By the end of the season, melon pests are coming on hard and I need the space for fall crops!. Thanks Hristo for the article, I can now get it earlier, but can I get it smaller? Attachments:
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Post by 12540dumont on Jul 2, 2011 17:13:02 GMT -5
John, I put 10 Bidwell Casaba seeds in the mail to you. (Well, not till after the 4th). I put them in an envelope and put them in the box to mail pile. Big vine, big fruit, protect them from sunburn. No guarantee that if you plant them you will get wives that cook and clean and weed. Those seeds cost a lot extra and I don't have them in my wee seed bank. Holly Attachments:
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Post by Hristo on Jul 2, 2011 20:13:07 GMT -5
...but can I get it smaller? Give them less space and the fruits should grow smaller.
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