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Post by jonnyyuma on Dec 30, 2010 21:09:29 GMT -5
I work around lettuce from Sept to March. From my experience bolting is strongly genetic X environment. Day length and temperature dependent. If you need slow bolters look for varieties developed in hotter, longer day regions. Also they don't have to be "baby leaf, spring mix" types, just plant heavy and harvest often.
Thanks
Jonny
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Post by DarJones on Dec 30, 2010 23:27:04 GMT -5
Nevada and Jericho are two very heat tolerant and bolt resistant varieties. They are my standard varieties here in North Alabama. I also grow Forellenschluss and Orielles de Diables but they are strictly for early harvest because they bolt rapidly. Leaf/romaine lettuce is the only real option here, but if you want to try a heading lettuce, Summertime can be grown to maturity in hot climates.
It is not just bolt tolerance, but also lack of bitterness that sets apart the best heat tolerant varieties. Most lettuce becomes very bitter as the temperature goes up.
Seeds of Change has an excellent selection of lettuce varieties for hot climates.
DarJones
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Post by laura on Mar 4, 2011 10:58:55 GMT -5
Nevada and Cherokee have been my most bolt resistant.
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Post by Joseph Lofthouse on Mar 4, 2011 12:06:33 GMT -5
Around here lettuce turns bitter before it bolts, so a non-bittering lettuce is more important to me than a non-bolting lettuce.
Simpson's Black Seeded is a great variety for my garden.
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Post by mjc on Mar 4, 2011 12:28:58 GMT -5
Two things I've found that really impact how quickly lettuce both goes bitter and bolts...temperature and water.
I've had lettuce that went bitter long before bolting, because it was too warm for it. A couple of summer's ago it stayed cool and rainy all summer (we had no days over 85° and just 3 over 80°) and the lettuce took forever to bolt or go bitter. The same varieties (same seed,even), the following year, went bitter when it started getting in the 80s (several of those in a row in June), but it was still fairly wet and it didn't bolt, immediately. Some of the later planted lettuce both bolted and went bitter, quickly.
Mulching heavily helps to prevent both bolting and bitterness...by both helping to retain water and keeping the soil cooler (actually at a more uniform temperature). I've used well composted wood chips with great success, but straw, leaves or any other mulch should help.
Also, shade, either from a taller growing crop, a deciduous tree (not walnut) or shade cloth. Planting location will also help...a northern or eastern exposure, with the southern exposure being mostly blocked will be considerably cooler.
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Post by ottawagardener on Mar 4, 2011 20:25:18 GMT -5
I agree. Tender lettuce requires a tender environment. Crowding, low water, slow growth and heat will all add to bitterness. I opt for fertile ground, well mulched beds, careful choice of variety and timed planting. I usually switch to other greens in late summer.
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Post by Leenstar on Mar 6, 2011 8:28:36 GMT -5
I managed to overwinter some lettuce this year. I build a cold frame out of bricks with old windows across the tops. I got lettuce up to Christmas before the 2010-2011 Midwestern Winter Wonderland aka WINTER ATTACKS left everything in illinois varying snow and or ice.
I tried to go out and clear off the snow as much as possible. Nice little plants are still going in there. I tried a few and was surprised to find that despite its small size the variety (Australian Yellow Leaf) was already pretty bitter. A red variety in the same frame I think it was Pablo was nice and sweet.
Maybe I let the frame get to hot and that caused the bitterness?
I am curious what is going to happen with the plants in terms of setting seed this year after being over wintered. Anyone overwinter lettuce before?
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