|
Post by templeton on Jan 31, 2014 0:55:56 GMT -5
I have a plastic pot full in an exposed spot that has received no water all summer - the ground is dust, so the pot must be incredibly dry. The topsetters aren't thriving, but neither are they dying. This is truely an onion for tough times. t
|
|
|
Post by steev on Jan 31, 2014 2:49:19 GMT -5
Very interesting; I must work on this.
|
|
|
Post by philagardener on Jan 31, 2014 6:44:52 GMT -5
I was sharing seed with someone who had Egyptian Onions on their want list, so on a whim I went out to the garden and dug through the snow. Not only were last year's unprotected top sets still firm after our super cold weather this winter but they even were growing nice new white roots in the ice and snow! So off they went to MN for some real winter testing! They really are tough!
|
|
|
Post by flowerweaver on Jan 31, 2014 8:38:51 GMT -5
It's good to hear they are almost indestructible, as I just obtained 50 large Egyptian bulbils. Sounds like they are supposed to be planted in the fall when we plant our regular onions. Should I just store them until then, or go ahead and plant them this spring? I rather doubt I can keep them viable that long in the house; from past experience with any kind of stored bulb they will likely rot in two seasons time.
|
|
|
Post by richardw on Jan 31, 2014 13:08:08 GMT -5
That's a great onion, Richard. I'd be happy if my normal onions grew that big. Thanks t,think they are big,wait till i show you the size of my 'normal' onions yep ,keep well into spring at least Do you primarily grow them for the tops as salad onions, or for the bottoms as bulb type cooking onions? Just a suggestion, plant a dozen or so bulbs in a row, and dozen of the top bulbils beside, to see what does best. From other threads here, you might get more little bulbs from big single bulbs (like true shallots), and fewer larger bulbs from the little bulbils. Yes i will try this,what ive learnt from this thread in the last few days is that these onions are a lot tougher than i thought,so by replanting the bulbs per-winter this will indicate if my line of tree onions are as equally durable quote author=" templeton" source="/post/95143/thread" timestamp="1391115073"] And another suggestion (full them this morning ), if the flower heads look like totally succumbing, your could try the cut flower method, snip off the head and put in a vase on the windowsill, change the water daily. I'm trying this with spud onion head that got accidentally pruned, and the seed capsules are at least still a bit green while rest of the stalk is drying off. Probably should have given it a feed. Recommendations for cut flowers in water is a bit of sugar for food, squeeze of lemon to adjust pH, any a tiny bit of bleach to prevent tne water going scungy. Trim the bottom of the stalk daily to keep it fresh. T[/quote] The problem is the one remaining flower stem has the yellowing high up towards the top ,so it doesn't leave much to put into a vase,still, i'll try anyone.
|
|
|
Post by raymondo on Feb 7, 2014 19:47:06 GMT -5
My flowering walking onion seed head died without producing seed. An autopsy showed more bulbils had formed. I hadn't noticed. I think the plant simply aborted all the flowers. Will have to wait till next season now.
|
|
|
Post by richardw on Feb 7, 2014 23:48:50 GMT -5
Will have to wait till next season now. Oh well,its fun trying hey. I'm the same too Ray,the one single stem that had half formed seed heads ended going totally yellow,so thats the end of that
|
|
|
Post by templeton on Feb 8, 2014 4:09:57 GMT -5
No luck with seeds here this year, but last season's single seedling is thriving. Got 2 or 3 bulbils in a pot, as well. t
|
|
|
Post by richardw on Feb 9, 2014 13:45:46 GMT -5
Ive noticed that with my line of tree onions that the larger the base onions the least amount of flowers it produced,the clump which held the most promise of growing seed only had small base onions,so i dont know if that would had been best plant to have had seed from for a start.
|
|
|
Post by ilex on Apr 5, 2014 15:21:06 GMT -5
Just wanted to show this. Normal onion planted in spring 2012, variety selected to be used as scallions, so not selected againts dividing. Makes bulbs first summer, dividing a bit, lifted and planted again in fall (left in place here), dividing some more and picked winter / very early spring. I left it in place one year more:
|
|
|
Post by trixtrax on Apr 6, 2014 12:12:09 GMT -5
Very neat onion ilex - do you remember which variety this was? Starting to look like a potato onion..
|
|
|
Post by ilex on Apr 7, 2014 7:15:03 GMT -5
Very neat onion ilex - do you remember which variety this was? Starting to look like a potato onion.. Blanca tardia de Lleida. It's the one used for "calçots". Many varieties have a tendency to divide and are systematically selected againts it. If they were selected for that, we would probably end with a potato onion.
|
|
|
Post by raymondo on Apr 7, 2014 17:18:28 GMT -5
I like the trait of splitting and flower scapes separate to the edible base. It happens occasionally in my garden but I haven't saved any seeds from them. I just appreciate the bounty and eat the onions!
|
|
|
Post by ilex on Apr 7, 2014 18:27:35 GMT -5
I like the trait of splitting and flower scapes separate to the edible base. It happens occasionally in my garden but I haven't saved any seeds from them. I just appreciate the bounty and eat the onions! I do too, but don't have it in my garden. It would be great to introduce it to many onions. For calçots for example, it would allow to extend the season. When saving seed, it would allow to get a crop. If you see it again, leave those for seed. Even if population is low, they will be useful in a breeding project.
|
|
|
Post by raymondo on Apr 8, 2014 1:18:38 GMT -5
The remains of a crop of Ramata di Milano have split. That may be due to removal of flower heads which I did earlier in the season. Of the ones left, only a few split. I have replanted those in another part of the garden to see what will happen come spring.
|
|