|
|
Post by keen101 (Biolumo / Andrew B.) on Jan 3, 2017 19:10:26 GMT -5
I'm in a tomato mood today. Do your cold tolerant tomatoes fare better in winter greenhouses than other varieties? or is that not something you've tested or selected for? When will you start you next frost trial? Out of curiosity, what variety is the thick leaved hedge tomato? Is it one you've tried in crosses?
Awhile back i think you mentioned that your varieties tended to orient their leaves upward at night as some sort of radiant frost protection. I seem to remember reading that there was a silver-leaved variety that someone on a tomato forum said did the same thing. (Silvery Fir Tree?) Maybe that is the same as your "fern" variety?
|
|
|
|
Post by Joseph Lofthouse on Jan 3, 2017 23:02:15 GMT -5
I start the cold-tolerant tomatoes in the greenhouse when it's too cold to be growing tomatoes in the greenhouse. I plant varieties other than frost-tolerant varieties, so I'm selecting for frost tolerance even in the greenhouse. But mostly, I avoid submitting non-frost tolerant varieties to frost.
I'm intending to start the next frost-tolerance trial on about Febuary 11th.
The heavy-leaved variety is DX52-12 which used to be the most commonly grown commercial tomato in this area. It was common to pick after the plants were killed by frost.
|
|
|
|
Post by steev on Jan 4, 2017 2:05:32 GMT -5
Really? Ripe, green-to-ripen, or green-to-use?
|
|
|
|
Post by reed on Jan 4, 2017 4:28:48 GMT -5
We commonly pick green or partly ripe tomatoes after frost has burned the leaves. Some go ahead and and ripen, some get fried. If the fruits themselves, not just the leaves were touched we don't keep them. I have on occasion pulled plants and hung them in the shed before frost and a lot go ahead and ripen.
I suspect a lot more could be done with saving late season tomatoes but I haven't really put a lot of effort to as I don't care that much about tomatoes once the canning jars are full.
Some volunteer plants that survived mid twenties F this spring caught my attention on starting plants earlier in the season. I have close to 150 frost free days but tomato season is in a sense much less than that, gotta get the crop harvested before the worst of the blight hits.
|
|
|
|
Post by keen101 (Biolumo / Andrew B.) on Jan 4, 2017 11:08:51 GMT -5
i keep hearing about this dreaded blight stuff. It must really be a problem since i see it mentioned so often. I'm not sure it's a problem here, but then again since I've never consistently grown tomatoes i guess i really don't know what it is. There were a few tomatoes that were diseased and died last year, but that was actually early on so i'm not really sure what it was. Some varieties were affected much more than others. Copia was the worst one hit. Curled up and eventually died. Never produced even one fruit. Sad it was. More pitiful though because the plant right next to it was practically thriving, so it was hard to feel sorry for it. Bad genes i guess. And those tomato people try to say if a tomato doesn't grow well for you that it must be you or your crazy notion not to use mulch. hmm.. mulch might help.. but it's not the mulch thats the real problem.
|
|
|
|
Post by walt on Jan 4, 2017 15:55:39 GMT -5
S. pimpinellifolium has survived the frost/cold tolerance test. Too bad that the flowers are so tiny and hard to work with. I find S. pimpinellifolium very easy to work with. The style is very thin and easily broken, so I never use it as a seed parent. Come to think of it, I think I never got a single pollination on it as a seed parent. The styles ALWAYS broke. But as a pollen parent it is easy. Use a newly open flower. Snip off the anther cone using thumbnail and finger. Pull out the style. Push the anther cone down over the stigma of the seed parent, which I first emasculated. The anther cone stays together and stays in place. I get a high percentage of takes this way. I have only worked with one S. pimpinellifolium, LA 0722. This method may not work with every accession. But I learned about it from the Tomato Genetics Cooperative Newsletter, back about 1978-9. |
|
|
|
Post by Joseph Lofthouse on Jan 4, 2017 21:19:19 GMT -5
Many hundreds of tomato varieties have flowed through my garden. Paperwork was taking more time than growing, so I stopped keeping records. If the variety that I call "Fern" is the same as "Silvery Fir Tree", then it's a great variety for my garden: My earliest slicing tomato.
|
|
|
|
Post by Joseph Lofthouse on Jan 4, 2017 21:20:54 GMT -5
Really? Ripe, green-to-ripen, or green-to-use? Ripe to go to the cannery. The variety is a determinate. They pretty much ripen all at once, and the ripe tomatoes hold well on the vine. |
|
|
|
Post by steev on Jan 5, 2017 2:48:00 GMT -5
So they might be good to pull and hang.
|
|
|
|
Post by keen101 (Biolumo / Andrew B.) on Mar 8, 2017 23:05:54 GMT -5
You might find this information interesting. tgrc.ucdavis.edu/Misc-stocks%20list%202015.pdf9. Stress Tolerant Stocks (60 +) We receive many requests for stocks with tolerances to environmental stresses (abiotic or biotic). T his group of mostly wild species accessions have been chosen based on observations of plants in their native habitats and/or reports in the literature. Stress Species Accessions Drought S. pimpinellifolium LA1578, LA1595, LA1600, LA1607, LA2718 Drought S. pennellii (general feature) LA0716, and others Drought S. chilense (general feature) LA1958, LA1959, LA1972, and others Drought S. sitiens (general feature) LA1974, LA2876 , and others Flooding S. lycopersicum ‘ cerasiforme ’ LA1421, and others Flooding S. juglandifolium , S. ochranthum (general feature) LA2120, LA2682 High temperatures S. lycopersicum LA2661 , LA2662 , LA3120 , LA3320 Low temperaturesS. habrochaites LA1363, LA1393, LA1777, LA1778Low temperatures S. chilense LA1969, LA1971, LA2883, LA2773, LA2949, LA3113 , LA4117A Low temperatures S. lycopersicoides LA1964, LA2408, LA2781 Low temperatures S. sitiens LA4331 and others Stress Species Accessions Aluminum toxicity S. lycopersicum ‘ cerasiforme ’ LA2710 (suspected) Salinity S. chilense LA1930, LA1932, LA1958, LA2747, LA2748, LA2880, LA2931 Salinity S. galapagense LA1401, LA1508, LA3909 Salinity S. cheesmaniae LA0749, LA3124 Salinity S. lycopersicum LA2711 Salinity S. lycopersicum ‘ cerasiforme ’ LA2081, LA1310, LA2079, LA4133 Salinity S. pennellii LA0716, LA1809, LA1926, LA1940, LA2656 Salinity S. peruvianum LA0462, LA1278, LA2744 Salinity S. pimpinellifolium LA1579 and others Salinity S. sitiens (general feature) LA4113 and others Arthropods S. habrochaites LA0407 and others Arthropods S. pennellii LA0716 and others |
|
|
|
Post by Marches on Mar 23, 2017 16:31:16 GMT -5
Are there any cold hardy tomato species that can be introgressed into tomatoes?
|
|
|
|
Post by Joseph Lofthouse on Mar 24, 2017 21:01:28 GMT -5
Are there any cold hardy tomato species that can be introgressed into tomatoes? Depends on one's definition of cold hardy... It might be possible to get domestic-like tomatoes with about the same cold hardiness as tomatillos or ground cherries. Able to withstand short periods of cold around 25 F, or that might set and ripen fruit in spite of night-time lows around 40. |
|
|
|
Post by steev on May 16, 2017 22:30:47 GMT -5
I'm stockpiling liter plastic bottles as a hedge against these occasional frosts; pisses me right off when I lose something of interest for lack of a "cloche".
|
|
|
|
Post by imgrimmer on May 23, 2017 2:12:21 GMT -5
What do you plan to do with the survivours? Sounds like a good idea to me to cross these survivours.
Please keep us updated.
|
|
|
|
Post by DarJones on May 23, 2017 3:49:13 GMT -5
Of the Lycopersicum lines that survive cold, there are none commercially available that have enough cold resistance to be worth making crosses with cold resistance as an objective. The wild species, particularly Peruvianum and Habrochaites, have enough to be worth some work. I have several lines to grow this year and make crosses.
|
|
