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Post by flowerweaver on Dec 28, 2015 11:29:28 GMT -5
I can't spring plant because it gets too hot fast. The only beans I have ever harvested have come from fall planting in areas receiving late afternoon shade. Winter is brief here, and only comes at night so I'm not really worried about frosts.
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Post by richardw on Dec 28, 2015 12:20:30 GMT -5
The frosts tend to effect the stems of the plants at about half way up and not the growing tips which one would expect, cant think of any other vegetable that's effected this way.
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Post by richardw on Dec 28, 2015 12:38:20 GMT -5
I can't spring plant because it gets too hot fast. The only beans I have ever harvested have come from fall planting in areas receiving late afternoon shade. Winter is brief here, and only comes at night so I'm not really worried about frosts flowerweaver It sounds like the degree of frosts are below that threshold in which your broad beans seem to be able to handle, exactly what the temp is i'm not sure but i would think around that 3-4 C deg mark, then there could be other factors come into play also, like what influence does daytime temps have on frost tolerance ? What's your lowest frost temperature
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Post by flowerweaver on Dec 28, 2015 13:09:30 GMT -5
richardw winter here usually means t-shirt weather during the day and light freezes 28F (-2C) at night, except there will always be at least a three day run of temps solidly not above freezing, usually in January, then I use frost blankets. On occasions it gets down to 10F (-12C) for a night. I'm always surprised by how many things can take a hard night if the daytime warms up. The ones I've grown in the spring always look really good until the weather gets hot. Then they succumb to powdery mildew and aphids about the time they bloom. It is interesting to note that the ones grown this year from last year's harvest are bigger and better looking than the ones planted from new seed this year. So, perhaps, they are adapting very slowly.
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Post by richardw on Dec 28, 2015 13:19:02 GMT -5
Ok, so your hot weather is humid heat,i never get powdery mildew in my Broadbeans
Its those 10F frost that do the damage, but if you are only getting the one frost surely you'll have some that will recover and they would be the ones to take seed from.
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Post by flowerweaver on Dec 28, 2015 14:19:28 GMT -5
No, my weather is (usually) hot and arid. But the type of spray heads on my irrigation has undoubtedly contributed to the powdery mildew. This year I've switched them to drip, so we'll see.
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Post by steev on May 27, 2017 23:39:16 GMT -5
There is much to be said for letting things survive or not, depending on their capacity, without massive human intervention; granted, this is counter to the whole chemical-intervention model, but it's possible we'd be better off with less cancer, even if it means less food; here in the USA, it's looking like less food could be a good thing; we're looking like Germans in the late thirties, then the most overweight nation in Europe (there are similarities politically, as well), sad.
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Post by rowan on May 27, 2017 23:47:47 GMT -5
I get a lot of chocolate spot but it doesn't seem to damage the plants, just looks a bit ugly so I never bother trying to control it. Some of my varieties tolerate it more than others, as is normal.
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Post by richardw on May 28, 2017 0:21:12 GMT -5
Same here too, i never worry about it as they grow perfectly fine with it.
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Post by steev on May 28, 2017 0:44:34 GMT -5
There you go; it's not all about us; some of our very distant cousins also want a taste; they may even have been in the cafeteria line before us. We can try to eradicate them, but they just get pissed off and more virulent, oddly enough (really, why don't they just perish, that being our preference; aren't we in charge, Crown of Creation and all that?).
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Post by Joseph Lofthouse on May 28, 2017 9:58:50 GMT -5
I don't keep records of variety names, but to the best of my recollection, strains that may have contributed to my fava bean landrace included pigeon beans, and horse beans from a swap. Horse beans from a Pakistani grocery store. Packages of broad beans from health food and grocery stores. Ianto's return from Adaptive seeds. Crimson flowered favas from a seed swap. Purple-seeded favas that a local collaborator gifted to me. Broad beans from a couple of swaps. I didn't knowingly include Windsor.
The key to growing fava beans for me is to get them in the ground the day after the snow melts, either as 3 week old plants, or as seeds. They flower like crazy for me, but don't set seed in hot weather. There might also be an opportunity for me to grow fall favas, if I could get the timing of the plantings right (mid to late July?). I have enough seed to play with that this year. I may also be inadvertently selecting for a strain that fruits better in hot weather.
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Post by blueadzuki on May 28, 2017 15:45:49 GMT -5
I don't keep records of variety names, but to the best of my recollection, strains that may have contributed to my fava bean landrace included pigeon beans, and horse beans from a swap. Horse beans from a Pakistani grocery store. Packages of broad beans from health food and grocery stores. Ianto's return from Adaptive seeds. Crimson flowered favas from a seed swap. Purple-seeded favas that a local collaborator gifted to me. Broad beans from a couple of swaps. I didn't knowingly include Windsor. Remind me next time I go to the bodegea and do a hunt around the green South American Favas. I can let you have the leftovers from whatever I get. I always need to get at least a handful so as to make what I want big enough to actually buy, and since all I really want out of what I buy are pretty much the purple patches and fingerprint ones, I usually have plenty of leftovers. I suppose that also applies to when I buy bags of small favas from the Middle Eastern market, but I don't buy many of those anymore (ever since they went to a prepackaged version, as opposed to their own packaging, I can't seem to find any of the mid size "orange peel" ones I was after.)
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Post by Srdjan Gavrilovic on Jan 15, 2018 13:28:01 GMT -5
For all of you who would like to follow out-breeding rate in your Vicia faba. Or need to select hybrids at early time point. "The pollen donor genotypes carried markers as follows: A line from cultivar Minica 1.1, with the presence of a melanin spot on the stipulae (dominant over its absence), a line from the cross Minicax 434/'77 and a line from the cultivar 'Ltineburger', both with black seed coat colour (dominant over brown) and 'Populatia locala' with anthocyanin-containing seedlings (dominant over anthocyanin-free)" link.springer.com/article/10.1007/BF00023517My favas are mix of 4 named varieties from seeds shop (Bartek, Meteor and 2 more that I can't recall names) and are all recessive for all of these traits. Is there anyone having "melanin spot" or anthocyanin showing seedlings phenotype in mongrel population and willing to sell/exchange/present seeds? I have very good success with favas. It is the best cropping specie for me with easily 1:30-40 ration (seeded:harvested) depending on year. There are always some plants showing even higher ratio. I'm interested in adding some easy to track genetics to my population and to see how much mixing is there and increase their adaptiveness even more. Best, Srdjan
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Post by Srdjan Gavrilovic on Jan 16, 2018 14:21:08 GMT -5
I hand shelled all my 2017 favas and noted no segregation. Admittedly I just received the seed mixes but they included anthocyanin amongst their traits and were reportedly mixed populations. William, did they show anthocyanin phenotype at seedling stage or adult plant stage? What plant parts were colored?
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Post by Srdjan Gavrilovic on Jan 17, 2018 1:49:01 GMT -5
Just the bean itself is all I was thinking of not the plant. I may need to observe more closely next year. Seed coat is determined by genetics of mother plant. Same plant, same seed coat color for all beans. In order to identify segregation you would need to plant family groups, wait for plants to set seeds and only then you would be able to say was there something or not. That's why I'm looking for anthocyanin in seedlings or "melanin spot", they can be scored with first above ground parts or first true leaf, respectively. If you have limited space, very useful markers (at least, when compared against seed color).
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