Adventures in Nixtamalization

[oxbowfarm]

Oct 28, 2014 19:20:09 GMT -5 jondear said:

I'm curious if the different colors impart a noticeable difference in flavor of the finished product... I'm thinking of playing with dry corn next year. I have Abnaki Rose (a flint) and Hopi Blue flour.

I have not been able to detect any differences in flavor, but I am not the best person for flavor nuances. They all taste great. I've gotten the best texture out of my White Flour Corn Grex. I think this is because I was able to get the masa dough to a fairly fine consistency. I was able to get the White Flour tortillas to partially puff with separate internal layers. That has not been achieved yet with any of the other corns. Adjusting the grinder for consistent results is kind of a mystery. You absolutely have to grind the masa at least twice to get a reasonably flexible tortilla.

Here's a picture of tortillas from three different corns. White Flour Grex on the left, then Cateto Sulino, then Oxbow Flint on the bottom.



I'm somewhat surprised at how non-yellow my flint corn is in the form of masa and tortillas, since it is predominantly yellow endosperm. The massive abundance of carotene in Cateto Sulino compared to normal yellow corn is once again demonstrated.

[steev]

I have no idea what the result difference is between the common hand-crank corn grinder (what I have) and what may be used even in small commercial operations. My curiosity is piqued. I'll try to remember, on my way to the farm this Friday, to stop at "Herrera's Mercado, Panaderia, y Tortillera" in Maxwell, to investigate. He's a mensch, and his business prospers in hard times, as he deserves.

[DarJones]

One ring is enough Steve. Now should it be a nose ring or an ear ring?

I've grown some of the traditional mexican masa corn. It tends to be a soft dent. Where I see a difference is in the flavor. Chewing on a dry kernel has a distinctive sweet corn flavor that I have not seen in commercial corn here in the U.S. Cherokee Squaw is close, but not really as sweet as the Mexican races. If you are interested, I have several contacts in and around Mexico City. It would be fairly easy to get some samples from one of the markets. No promises about daylight sensitivity, the varieties I've grown were uniformly tropical adapted.

[oxbowfarm]

Oct 29, 2014 2:34:13 GMT -5 DarJones said:

One ring is enough Steve. Now should it be a nose ring or an ear ring?

I've grown some of the traditional mexican masa corn. It tends to be a soft dent. Where I see a difference is in the flavor. Chewing on a dry kernel has a distinctive sweet corn flavor that I have not seen in commercial corn here in the U.S. Cherokee Squaw is close, but not really as sweet as the Mexican races. If you are interested, I have several contacts in and around Mexico City. It would be fairly easy to get some samples from one of the markets. No promises about daylight sensitivity, the varieties I've grown were uniformly tropical adapted.

I'm more interested in knowing the characteristics, vs having the germplasm. I'm not averse to adding in diverse genetics to my corns, but I'm already doing that for traits that matter to me more, disease tolerance (especially Norther Leaf Blight), cold tolerance in the flint, stay-green, and stiff stalk/lodge resistance.

I want to know what traits are common to corns used for nixtamal for tortillas and tamales vs other uses that don't require nixtamalization. If there are any traits they have in common. Since I can already make a tortilla with my corn that is as good as or better than can be made with Maseca masa harina, it seems like my corns could be selected towards a better nixtamal type without having to add tropical adapted corns from Mexico.

It seems obvious that many different corns are used for tortillas in Central America, since different varieties and races are popular in different areas. I just wonder if they have things in common or if the different corns are just all easily made into masa no matter their other characters.
-

[Walk]

[/quote]I want to know what traits are common to corns used for nixtamal for tortillas and tamales vs other uses that don't require nixtamalization. If there are any traits they have in common. Since I can already make a tortilla with my corn that is as good as or better than can be made with Maseca masa harina, it seems like my corns could be selected towards a better nixtamal type without having to add tropical adapted corns from Mexico.

It seems obvious that many different corns are used for tortillas in Central America, since different varieties and races are popular in different areas. I just wonder if they have things in common or if the different corns are just all easily made into masa no matter their other characters.
-[/quote]

One year I made nixtamal from several types of corn to answer this question for myself. I used an organic yellow dent from a neighbor, some flint corn (Garland), 2 kinds of flour corn (Mandan Bride & Supai Red), some organic yellow popcorn from the food co-op, an OP sweet corn, and even some grain sorghum. They all made masa but the sweet corn was too sticky to use by itself to press into tortillas. The textures were different but the flavor was good for all. We were surprised at how well the popcorn and sorghum worked. We did learn that the harder the kernels, the longer the cooking required to get them soft (duh). It's worth the time experimenting in the kitchen before committing to growing a bunch of some variety and you get to eat the experiment!

[oxbowfarm]

At least with the method I've been using, nixtamalization is not "cooking". You put the corn in boiling liquid, but not remotely long enough to cook it. When a grain is "cooked" it means the starch grains are dissolved and the starch is fully gelatinized. That isn't happening with the method I've been working with. You cook the corn in the alkali just long enough to get the pericarp to slip, and then you turn off the heat. The rest of the kernel is fully hydrated after it sits for a few hours, but its not a cooked food.

[Blueflint]

Perfect timing as I was just talking to Rodger Winn (South Carolina) about making Hominy. Good information and inspirational. Think I will try a small batch with Cherokee White Flour Corn and see how it does.

Tony

[oxbowfarm]

White flour is easy to nixtamalize. I've been using about 2 tablespoons pickling lime to a half gallon water and quart of corn. I've read recipes that tell you to bring the corn to a boil slowly, so it takes 30 minutes before the water is simmering. I tried that a few times and found zero difference than if you just put a lid on at high heat and get it boiling ASAP. My white flour grex is basically Tuscarora/Iroquois White and Cherokee White so I can tell you that the Cherokee will only take about 10-15 minutes of simmering for the pericarp to be slipping off. Very easy corn to nixtamalize.

[steev]

Perhaps not useful: when cooking grainberries, I soak them overnight, boil and simmer ~1/2 hour, leave to set ~8 hours, drain for use.

I wonder whether the soak would reduce the nixtamalization time of the more recalcitrant corn, or whether it would just facilitate "cooking".

[khumlee]

Thanks to share your adventure with nixtamalization, last year I trying to do this, but never one percap slip from the grain, may be the lime that I have used was old and lost of his alcalin power. I will buy a new lime bag and try again.
All your adventures encourage me in this way and I hope to better understand the basic rules of this process. Tell me if you thing this points are important
1. grains soaking (may be less heat time)
2. 1 kg of corn 3 liter of watter and 3 table spoons of lime.
3. boiling until pericarp slip
4. stop heat and wait 24h
5. washing with clear water until all pericarp get out
6. grinding many time if necessary until have smooth masa texture and add water if necessary too
7. Made the tortillas
8. bon appetit

[oxbowfarm]

Oct 30, 2014 11:07:09 GMT -5 khumlee said:

Thanks to share your adventure with nixtamalization, last year I trying to do this, but never one percap slip from the grain, may be the lime that I have used was old and lost of his alcalin power. I will buy a new lime bag and try again.
All your adventures encourage me in this way and I hope to better understand the basic rules of this process. Tell me if you thing this points are important
1. grains soaking (may be less heat time)
2. 1 kg of corn 3 liter of watter and 3 table spoons of lime.
3. boiling until pericarp slip
4. stop heat and wait 24h
5. washing with clear water until all pericarp get out
6. grinding many time if necessary until have smooth masa texture and add water if necessary too
7. Made the tortillas
8. bon appetit

• I have not pre-soaked any of the corn I have nixtamalized. It may be a benefit, but I can say that it is not a necessary step.
• I've been using approx .6 kg corn, 2 liters of water (approx), and 2 tablespoons of Pickling Lime (Calcium Hydroxide)
• Boil at simmer till pericarps slip, this should take 15 min for all the clear pericarp corns I've tested, and about 45 min for red pericarp (limited number of corns tested)
• stop heat and let soak for 8 - 12 hours
• wash with multiple changes of water (usually about 4) with vigourous rubbing to remove pericarps
• Grind till smooth I've been doing 2 grinds, but I need to work on this step. Fineness of grind appears to be the limiting factor for good soft texture in a tortilla
• make tortillas
• bon appetit

Make sure the "lime" you are using is Calcium Hydroxide vs calcium carbonate. Calcium carbonate will not do the job. Old slaked lime will spontaneously convert to calcium carbonate over time so it will become weaker. If you can't get slaked lime the best alternatives are fresh wood ashes or lye (sodium hydroxide). I have not used either of those alternatives yet, but I plan to try nixtamalizing with ashes soon.

[khumlee]

Thank you so much for all these details about your experience

[oxbowfarm]

There are several different calcium compounds that are commonly called "lime" in English. It is probably worth mentioning that the compound I've been using for all my nixtamalization so far is Calcium Hydroxide. AKA lime, slaked lime, pickling lime, cal.

[steev]

Somehow I've always thought calcium hydroxide and slaked lime were a step apart; don't know why.

[jondear]

If you ever go to a place that sells concrete blocks, after a rain, you can smell the lime that smells like corn chips.