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Post by doffer on Jul 28, 2020 14:39:05 GMT -5
Hello,
Can Tomato blight infect seeds zo u have next year blight in the seedlings?
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Post by xdrix on Jul 28, 2020 15:22:09 GMT -5
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Post by diane on Jul 28, 2020 21:57:16 GMT -5
I don't think late blight spores get on the seeds.
If my tomatoes get late blight, I put the plant and the tomatoes into the garbage. I do not put them in my compost pile, and I do not save seeds from them.
Here on the Pacific coast, late blight happens late in the season, after the rains begin. (We do not have rain in the summer). So all my seeds are saved from healthy plants.
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Post by doffer on Jul 29, 2020 11:39:46 GMT -5
Yes this is tomato blight |
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Post by doffer on Jul 29, 2020 11:43:21 GMT -5
I don't think late blight spores get on the seeds. If my tomatoes get late blight, I put the plant and the tomatoes into the garbage. I do not put them in my compost pile, and I do not save seeds from them. Here on the Pacific coast, late blight happens late in the season, after the rains begin. (We do not have rain in the summer). So all my seeds are saved from healthy plants. Here in Netherlands there is rain every week from start spring till end of summer. This is why we have blight when first fruit get red. And some people told me the blight can enter the seeds for next year. Is this treu? ps most resistent varaties with PH2 gene are also infected. |
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Post by xdrix on Jul 29, 2020 12:10:00 GMT -5
For me the late blight not infecte the seeds.
At a period i have throuw away the plant with the fruits infected in the compost and the next year,a lot plant was grow back without blight.
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Post by diane on Jul 29, 2020 15:04:46 GMT -5
The blight spores grow when the leaves are wet, so if you can keep the leaves dry, you shouldn't get blight. You could cover them with clear plastic and water carefully so the leaves stay dry.
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Post by xdrix on Jul 29, 2020 17:17:49 GMT -5
We have built a shelter for our tomato.
The lonely problem is that they are a taste less strong that the tomato wich grow in full air.
We must did more careful at the irigation.
This year we have recessed a porous pipe in the ground.
The soil drought less fast.
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Post by flowerbug on Jul 31, 2020 18:33:28 GMT -5
it is impossible here to not get blights on the tomatoes. we usually have dew and fogs in the later parts of summer. all we hope for is that we can get a crop in before the plants die off completely. in the many years we've been growing tomatoes we've never lost a complete crop, but we have had some damage. still our average harvest is somewhere between 20-40lbs per plant. that works, no sprays or fussing around.
i do rotate plant but that is about all i do for trying to keep diseases and pest numbers down.
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Post by doffer on Aug 2, 2020 5:41:03 GMT -5
Yes I know all the problems of Blight and how to prevent.
What I do not know, but it written by some seed companies: If u harvest seeds from infected tomatoes or plants the blight can go into the seed.
Is this true?
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Post by xdrix on Aug 2, 2020 10:10:25 GMT -5
For me the late blight not infecte the seeds. At a period i have throuw away the plant with the fruits infected in the compost and the next year,a lot plant was grow back without blight. For his developpement the blight require that the leaf are humid with a t° between 11°C and 26°C. . If you are a doubt you can past your seeds at the freezer. Try to take a tomato not too infected! There is a cut of the tomato! The blight begin by infected the peal and after the pulpit before to infected the canals wich they feed the seeds. encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQe_nsLw7WhlEUOJbqXc6Slw-gEy3NIIYsfjd1-GuQfJQ&sFor me if the,blight is really able to infected the seeds, i think that they are the last to be infected. Its possible that when the seed is at maturity the canal wich feed the seed it close and block the mushroom. |
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Post by jocelyn on Aug 2, 2020 12:47:38 GMT -5
I grow tomatoes with both pH2 and pH3, so don't get visible blight. I save my own seeds, which means that untill a line stabilizes with 2 copies of each, some plants can have 1 or none of a gene. Those plants get blight on the fruits, and if they are not too bad, I keep seed so I have some control plants to compare with. Most years they are no more likely to have blight than purchased seeds with no resistance. I know that only partly answers the question:)
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Post by doffer on Aug 9, 2020 6:27:01 GMT -5
I grow tomatoes with both pH2 and pH3, so don't get visible blight. I save my own seeds, which means that untill a line stabilizes with 2 copies of each, some plants can have 1 or none of a gene. Those plants get blight on the fruits, and if they are not too bad, I keep seed so I have some control plants to compare with. Most years they are no more likely to have blight than purchased seeds with no resistance. I know that only partly answers the question:) , What varieties do u use that have Ph2 and Ph3 resistance? I have good results with Moutain Magic F1 ph3 and ph2 heterozygous. No good results with Koralik Ph2 homozygous and is infected. Primabella Ph3 homozygous is not infected only the taste of the tomatoes can be better. A F1 hybrid of Primabella, heterozygous Ph3 is not infected. The tasted of these tomatoes is much better. I want to do more crossbreeding with homozygous Ph3 and Ph2 varieties. Only here in north Europe there is almost no knowledge about Phytophthora genes. (normal here everybody is growing in a greenhouse). The F1 varieties with Ph3 and Ph2 genes are not heirloom for crossbreeding. It will take some years to make heirloom varieties from them. This is why I like what you are doing! |
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Post by jocelyn on Aug 19, 2020 8:18:49 GMT -5
I started off with defiant, because I could get it locally. It has one pH2 and one pH3. If you grow it at least 10 meters from other tomatoes, it will self with no hand pollinations required. Save those seeds, best if they are pooled seeds from several plants. Plant what you need and wait for a bad blight year. The ones that blight and die have just removed themselves from the breeding population. In my area, both pH2 and pH3 are needed, and in a bad blight year, you can tell the ones with 2 copies of each. At this point, save seed from the homozygotes separately and plant one or two in the middle of a group of tomatoes you enjoy the flavour of. Let the bees mix them up and start the process again to concentrate the resistances. Defiant is useful because it's detirminant, a bush type, and I like some of the climbing ones, the indetirminants. The crosses are closer to climbing in phenotype. it's easy to pick them out by the time the fruits form. If you can bring in seeds from outside the EU, Iron lady has two copies of both pH2 and pH3. Otherwise, use what you have and it only takes a couple extra years. Google blight resistance in tomatoes, and see what you get. Here's a link I found, and there are lots more eorganic.org/node/10822 |
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Post by jocelyn on Aug 19, 2020 9:29:45 GMT -5
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