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Post by steve1 on Dec 19, 2017 6:24:30 GMT -5
No worries templeton . As far as I am aware the ER-2 hasn't broken down and there are variable reasons why the Pm R genes aren't used commonly. Thanks for the offer but all good. Sorry for the extra late reply.
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Post by steve1 on Dec 14, 2017 9:50:53 GMT -5
Hi andyb, have sent you a pm with the Phaseolus pollen growth recipe. Good luck.
Cheers Steve
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Post by steve1 on Dec 12, 2017 18:34:29 GMT -5
Andyb, Yes, not that hard to do - although I had some reasonable success with inter specific pea crosses just by using selfed pollen from the stigma. You will also be able to get some idea of how far the tepary pollen will grow just by cutting off a just self pollinated stigma and allowing it to grow through into the media. The other positive thing is it may remove any stigma related pollen germination incompatibility. Good luck, let me know how it goes. I'll chat with my mate and see if he has a recipe for pollen germination that might be better for legumes.
Steve
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Post by steve1 on Dec 11, 2017 15:58:14 GMT -5
Hi Andy,
Great work there Andy. I have a thought / suggestion for your wide tepary x runner crosses. I'm not sure which way you are doing the cross but if you are using the tepary as the pollen parent, there is a reasonable chance that the pollen will not grow that far down the much longer style of the runner. Had this discussion with a mate (whilst I was doing wild pea x field pea crosses) who had done alot of pollen germination studies as part of his PhD. I also found a paper that was reporting on interspecific bean crosses and showed almost 100% pollination of backcrosses using a combination of style cutting and in vitro pre-germinated pollen. In short, your tepary crosses still may not go, but maybe cutting your runner styles down to half or less and using the perhaps pre-germinated pollen off the stigma on the cut style might give you more of a chance. It will almost certainly help with your back crosses.
Cheers Steve
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Post by steve1 on Aug 22, 2017 7:40:13 GMT -5
Yep I have a Pisum fulvum x sativum cross to do, only literature I can find suggests it is a 1/30 cross. I'm set to do 90. Doing crosses in the open is a pain. Earlyish morning and preferably in a greenhouse is optimal. Have a look at the pea crossing thread... I think Rebsie started that one...
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Post by steve1 on Aug 21, 2017 7:22:56 GMT -5
templeton, is there any breakdown of resistance that you know of to the Er-2 gene (which was the commonly used one (and is in Super Sugar Snap as I recall) ? I know there are others but I hadn't heard of them being used. If so what varieties are the others in? andi and ferdzy, T is right make some crosses, they are large easy flowers. If you are trying to sterilize seed, 1/4 strength sodium hypochlorite or household bleach with a drop of dishwashing detergent agitated for 10 mins should do the job. That'll knock off most fungi including PM and ascochyta I would think. You don't really want your seeds to imbibe bleach I suspect, sounds detrimental to germination. Just my thoughts. Cheers and good luck Steve
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Post by steve1 on Aug 8, 2017 4:42:32 GMT -5
I feel your pain with the quinces Steev. I've got three trees and it's more than I can use and give away. Here's a quince paste recipe I used this year with excellent results. Wash,halve and core the quinces leaving the skin on. Nuke them in the microwave in a tray with some water about 1/2 inch for 9 mins or until soft. Blitz/purée the drained quinces with the skins on (high source of pectin). Measure the purée out and add a cup of sugar for each cup of purée and cook on high in a slow cooker with the lid off stirring well when you see its forming a skin for between 5-8 hrs when the purée will be rich red in color and very sticky and sort of stretchy. Pour into a dish lined with baking paper, and allow to cool. Sitting it somewhere warmish with baking paper on top for a few days to dry out a bit more if necessary. Done.
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Post by steve1 on Jun 28, 2017 22:25:16 GMT -5
keen101 (Biolumo / Andrew B.) (and galina), here is an image of a Shiras pea (mature) which I think explains the leathery-ness you experienced. It was grown in a greenhouse in late spring (up to 35'C). Its much more parchment than I'd expect, though it is a snow ppVV as I demonstrated via dry pod phenotype and through crossing to my line of sugar snap which is also ppVV. I've also attached an image of a golden snap line that is sectioned (superior to inferior), stained (Phloroglucinol/HCL) and placed under a microscope slide. The feint pink lines running diagonally in the top part of the pod are the parchment fibres. Via taste test these pods were fiberless. www.dropbox.com/s/03alluqvrzwdonf/Shiras.jpg?dl=0www.dropbox.com/s/x26fvxc12seslea/GoldenSnapMicroscope.JPG?dl=0
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Post by steve1 on May 20, 2017 1:24:54 GMT -5
galina, sorry - Dropbox has changed all my folders around, so my pictures have disappeared from view recently. Give me a few weeks I'll get it sorted. The crux of the Lamprechts research was that there were multiple alleles for the purple pigment. So, there is full purple then medium then light then none. I think I prefer the explanation in Bogdanovas paper that the Pur or Pu is a modifier. Shiraz is interesting, it forms a distinct parchment layer especially with heat - but crosses to ppVV maintaining the dry shrunken pod characteristic indicating snow phenotype. I cannot explain that one...
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Post by steve1 on Dec 1, 2016 6:02:18 GMT -5
steev - it sort of only occurred to me at the time I was writing the post (for runner beans), but finite resources, selection pressure and environment will all play a role in the reproductive strategy. If the season is too short or harsh or the selection pressure for bean productivity in the first year is high it sort of makes sense that resources are allocated to seed rather than tubers especially where tubers fail to over winter. Here runner beans over winter easily but selection pressure is zero and the environment is suitable. With the exception of this year (due to neglect and weeds) overwintering tubers are out of the ground early and I think? produce better than seed planted in the first year. Mind you, it's often too hot for them to produce beans until autumn. Just thoughts.
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Post by steve1 on Dec 1, 2016 1:49:52 GMT -5
Here is one of the scarlet runners that has overwintered for several years in the garden. I only dug up the one as they are all starting to actively grow (amongst the weeds). The main thick stem on the right tuber is still green and resprouting. Its probable if you select for productivity, you select against tuber formation. Cheers Steve dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/94877168/RunnerBean.jpg
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Post by steve1 on Nov 17, 2016 6:03:00 GMT -5
For what it's worth runner beans over winter in suburban Melbourne Australia with ease. Have had several go 4 years so far. No frost this winter to speak of. I can't say I paid them any attention, flowers already on Scarlett's in a pot. The others are amongst some weeds - will have a look and let you know.
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Post by steve1 on Oct 18, 2016 4:38:19 GMT -5
Hi troppo, welcome to the forum. Yes, as templeton says these folks REALLY do know maize. More info here than you could poke a stick at. And I too came across some of Joseph Lofthouse's landrace projects and it changed the way I think about plant breeding today I reckon for the better. How do the peas go up your way - what's your growing season?
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Post by steve1 on Oct 12, 2016 5:28:46 GMT -5
templeton - I'm sure you know but If you find any carrots you particularly like the taste of you can replant the leafy tops for seed... Looking great!
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Post by steve1 on Sept 25, 2016 17:46:05 GMT -5
Just had the thought about grafting blueberries over to a wild relative without the acidity requirement. Florida state uni appears to be trying this with sparkleberry. Has anyone else tried this approach?
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