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Post by steve1 on Sept 23, 2016 2:29:08 GMT -5
Yep, did that (sesanqua camellias) a long while ago... Plant them in potting mix and leave them outside and moist to chill for the winter. In spring they should appear. They were slow though - about 7 years to flowering. Not an overnight project... Hope that helps.
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Post by steve1 on Sept 20, 2016 7:22:46 GMT -5
Isn't it going to be just another recipe/ version of white oil? From the recipes online that's just vegetable oil and a surfactant, and that also burns plants when the weather is hot (I don't go use it if it's above 25c or on tender plants). I don't think there is any particular compound that is going to be insecticidal. Try your standard recipe with vegetable oil and see whether the results are the same. Here's a link to an Australian site stfc.org.au/home-made-white-oil-recipeHope that helps.
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Post by steve1 on Sept 16, 2016 5:51:37 GMT -5
reed that's interesting. Do you have any beans that do the full dehiscent thing?
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Post by steve1 on Sept 16, 2016 0:56:40 GMT -5
It's not antipodean privilege, I can't see them either T.
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Post by steve1 on Sept 14, 2016 18:43:14 GMT -5
keen101 (Biolumo / Andrew B.) good to hear you got some seed. Did you get any crosses done? I put in 10 seeds nearly a month ago, no germination as yet. Dug up five yesterday and clipped an end of the seed coat in the hope of helping the process. From a paper I read diploperennis is not supposed to have seed dormancy. Does anyone else that has grown diploperennis have any tricks or encountered this?
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Post by steve1 on Sept 12, 2016 5:03:57 GMT -5
oxbowfarm - I don't agree. There is plenty of publications to say there is SI and multiple alleles in B.napus link.springer.com/article/10.1007/BF00042617 There has also been versions of re synthesized napus with SI deliberately built in for hybrid seed production. My reasoning for a pollination bag or two was to see whether SI is present or not as it is a dominant trait in Brassica. But hearing and seeing the stigma is exerted leads me to wonder whether the line is protogynous which may complicate that further and may explain the bud drop of the first 50-100 flowers. The flip side is that most napus lines that aren't f1 hybrids are self compatible which I'm guessing is your knowledgeable sources points. My point which I should likely have expressed better, is given the nature of the incomplete knowledge of the parentage the best approach I could think of for of ensuring self pollinations of a one off plant that could be difficult to re-create would be to bypass the possibility of SI being present. Hope that explains my thought process and advice.
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Post by steve1 on Sept 11, 2016 21:38:51 GMT -5
andyb thanks for that. I've been approaching the pollinations in the same way I've been working on peas with the added pain of working on climbers which encompass my favorite high yielding varieties growing outside. I'll give your method a crack maybe with a couple of plants in a poly tunnel. Good luck with the wide crosses. Do you have any plans to chromosome double the wide crosses to maintain both sets of parental chromosomes?
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Post by steve1 on Sept 9, 2016 18:30:07 GMT -5
farmermike - it would be worth bagging some flowers for pure selfs too. One way or the other you should have seed to work with...
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Post by steve1 on Sept 9, 2016 2:43:43 GMT -5
andyb well done on attempting all those crosses. I love beans but have not had much success with crosses yet. Ahh spring is approaching. I'll try again... Any tips?
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Post by steve1 on Sept 9, 2016 2:08:54 GMT -5
Joseph Lofthouse - you are doing some serious work when you can add another 2900 calories to your plate. Love the frost tolerant beans too. With beans like those we could probably grow them here for 9 months of the year.
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Post by steve1 on Sept 7, 2016 3:48:46 GMT -5
shoshannah - I can't remember where I originally read the reference, though when I had issues with the weak pea seeds it worked a treat.
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Post by steve1 on Sept 5, 2016 18:18:06 GMT -5
andyb can't comment so much on weak bean seeds - but I've been germinating some weak pea seeds. My method is to germinate them in a covered plastic Petrie dish on filter paper. I've found the weaker the seeds are the more likely they are to rot. I keep a close eye on them and as soon as I see any fungal filaments I make a cup (one teabag) of pure camomile tea, then take about 1/5 cup of the tea and dilute that into another cup of cold water and use a little of that as a rinse. Be sure not to leave excess water in the Petrie dish. You may need to repeat the rinse every day or few days until germination occurs. Then once you've got cotyledons pot up and away you go. Hope that helps.
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Post by steve1 on Sept 5, 2016 17:31:31 GMT -5
@phillip I have just one tree, Nottingham. The few fruits I bothered to try were sort of spiced apple in flavor. It's a tough tree takes heat and dry well for me.
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Post by steve1 on Aug 28, 2016 19:27:51 GMT -5
Thanks reed. Seeing I attempted crosses in May/June in the Southern Hemisphere - it was neither hot and being in an arid glasshouse humid. I'll give it another run in a humid hotter environment. Perhaps there is a temperature requirement for pollen growth? I haven't tried to eat the ornamentals but have heard they are quite tasty too. We have quite a lot of solitary native bees here, and the standard nesting 'box' is a block of wood with lots of drilled holes of different sizes. Will post a picture later.
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Post by steve1 on Aug 26, 2016 20:57:30 GMT -5
reed out of interest was there any yellow/golden pollen on any of your varieties? My limited efforts this year resulted in no seed pods, but all the pollen was white. I do recall seeing one flower amongst many before I looked at doing crosses with golden pollen which is why I ask. Well done on the pollinations/pods!
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