|
Post by steve1 on Aug 24, 2016 17:00:06 GMT -5
farmermike - yes open the immature flower and dab on mature pollen. You could also do some pollinations on mature flowers by cutting the stigma and dabbing the pollen directly on the style. Both ways bypass the self incompatibility mechanism. One way or the other you should get seeds. Plant them together next year and let them pollinate each other in isolation and let those plants of the type you are after cross together. That should work... Because of the small size (guessing) of the flowers cutting off the stigma on mature flowers with small set of nail clippers or like might be easier than trying to open buds. Let us know how it goes.
|
|
|
Post by steve1 on Aug 13, 2016 18:34:43 GMT -5
keen101 (Biolumo / Andrew B.) and Joseph Lofthouse at least I won't have to worry about root cellaring. No frost to speak of yet and winter is not that far from over. I think some of the Peruvian Giant corn is going to overwinter too.
|
|
|
Post by steve1 on Aug 12, 2016 5:11:35 GMT -5
I have Zea diploperennis seed to plant this year. I gather it's another tropical short day corn like Peruvian Giant?
|
|
|
Post by steve1 on Aug 4, 2016 5:08:23 GMT -5
starbuckwhy and darrenabbey - I came across a publication by the FAO/ICARDA/ICRISAT which stated they have a free gamma mutation breeding service available. "Any plant breeder can send seeds for gamma ray irradiation to this address. The scientists working there can advise on the dose of gamma rays or apply the dose requested by the breeder. They will also adjust seed moisture content if necessary." in Plant Breeding and Farmer Participation - Methodologies for generating variability. Part 4: Mutation techniques p163 www.fao.org/docrep/012/i1070e/i1070e00.htmFAO/IAEA Agriculture Laboratory, Plant Breeding Unit, A-2444 Seibersdorf, Austria (<Official.Mail@iaea. org>) Hope that helps guys. Cheers Steve
|
|
|
Post by steve1 on Jul 22, 2016 16:44:19 GMT -5
diane - from my understanding photosynthetic assimilate is directly related to fruit/grain production. Though I'm away from my computer and can't give the reference. That supports the more leaves gives sweeter fruit theory. Dwarf vines probably (maybe?) produce less per plant but if the ratio of leaf area to fruit are the same then sweetness should be equal. Whether the short internode habit causes more leaf shading thereby reducing photosynthetic assimilate in comparison to vining types is another thing. There must be a paper on this, surely!
|
|
|
Post by steve1 on Jul 1, 2016 20:38:53 GMT -5
I think keen101 (Biolumo / Andrew B.) is on the right track. The only thing I could add is to deliberately encourage pollinators. With increased stresses such as heat, pod/stigma tend to extend outside the keel whilst still fertile increasing the risk of out crosses. Recognizing your crosses and getting some significant diversity in your pea lines are your other challenges. Doing crosses outdoors is painful. Especially with 2 meter tall plants covered in flowers and a breeze blowing. A polytunnel or such if you have the room makes it so much easier. It would probably be easier to start with at least one variety that does ok in your area. keen101 (Biolumo / Andrew B.) are you referring to the stay green trait (which is probably the opposite of precocious yellowing) i.e. green cotyledon peas?
|
|
|
Post by steve1 on Jun 25, 2016 17:13:56 GMT -5
keen101 (Biolumo / Andrew B.) great pictures! After a long think about the 'greenish' yellow of the yellow snaps I came to the conclusion after looking at pods with blank seeds that a good portion of the greenish colouration was due to the pod translucency and the mature green seeds. I can't think of a fix for that...
|
|
|
Post by steve1 on Jun 24, 2016 21:45:49 GMT -5
templeton I'm in the process of getting some together at the moment. I know the paper you are referring too and have read some of Beth Gotts papers. As you say it's of North American origin and supposedly a result of a wide cross between perennial and annual species and an allotetraploid. There are a few people growing it commercially in Vic. Looks interesting...
|
|
|
Post by steve1 on Jun 24, 2016 19:10:04 GMT -5
The desert sweet potato is being looked at by one of my lecturers at Uni. They grow readily from seed. The cold an damp is probably less of an issue, as the tubers can be dug up, but will have more info after winter. I'm growing some Yam daisy at the moment, of which the root is eaten. It was the staple indigenous vegetable in the south east according to Bruce Pascoe (Dark emu, black seeds) which I'm yet to read but planning on getting to soon.
|
|
|
Post by steve1 on Jun 19, 2016 4:46:27 GMT -5
Joseph Lofthouse I read a paper awhile ago re freeze drying corn pollen. Will have a look next week and get back with the details. From memory it found if you desiccate the pollen (with silica bags) package and put in the freezer the pollen was 15% viable at 1 year. Collecting the pollen would probably be accomplished by shaking the tassels into a paper bag. It's what I was going to do with the Peruvian giant corn I grew this year - but have just decided to resow the planned crosses next year now I know I can get the giant corn to maturity...
|
|
|
Post by steve1 on Jun 13, 2016 6:12:37 GMT -5
|
|
|
Post by steve1 on Jun 10, 2016 18:32:04 GMT -5
farmermike Brassica''a often have self incompatibility in mature flowers- effectively meaning they only outcross. You can overcome this by doing bud pollinations, it's what commercial breeders do to develop inbred lines. Hope that helps. Cheers Steve
|
|
|
Post by steve1 on Jun 9, 2016 7:48:58 GMT -5
Hi all, Good to see the projects coming along. Joseph Lofthouse, thanks. I look forward to seeing a few of yours when you get time. Damn weevils. Out of curiosity is the pea weevil the same as the bean version? templeton - I feel your pain. Nice pictures. I agree with keen101 (Biolumo / Andrew B.) that first one is a weird pink/purple. It's not a Kapsa x is it? Can't tell what colour the sepals are from the pictures. Have seen plenty of the greening of yellow pods at maturity which I think probably parallels the same process of red to purple on maturity with most of the reds which I think as you pointed out is likely a modifier of some sort. Makes some sense as these yellow pods are a true chlorophyll mutant, 25% pod chlorophyll content of a green pod. The yellow snaps have this going on and also the green seeds which is another colour influencing character. keen101 (Biolumo / Andrew B.), your peas are looking good. Good red snows are seemingly much easier to recover than a good red snap. More work to be done there. I'm trying to get the colour subtraction physics of the orange pod gene with green or yellow pods straight in my head. I can't now. When this orange pod line grows please post pictures, it's already interesting. Cheers Steve
|
|
|
Post by steve1 on Jun 3, 2016 7:05:38 GMT -5
|
|
|
Post by steve1 on May 20, 2016 2:56:50 GMT -5
Yep, south east end of Oz in the red zone too. Still picking green beans, tomatoes and zucchini. Nearly June! Has helped the Peruvian Giant corn make plenty of cobs though...
|
|