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Post by templeton on Aug 23, 2017 19:24:47 GMT -5
I've used water for alliums with success. gets all the really difficult to remove capsules out.
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Post by templeton on Aug 22, 2017 7:55:09 GMT -5
steve1, by breakdown do you mean where the disease has overcome the resistance? Sorry, I haven't done any research into it. My comments are from some observations i did a few years ago in one of my growouts, as I recall, in the same row I had very sick plants, uninfected plants, and plants with considerable bloom of Pm on them, but still powering along. AS for genetics, my Jupiter has pretty good PM resistance, but which genes its carrying i don't know - I did give you some Steve1 didn't I? If you need more let me know asap coz I'm offline for a couple of months soon. T
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Post by templeton on Aug 20, 2017 19:02:27 GMT -5
Hi andi, There are PM resistant peas. There are two different genes that both confer resistance. Best resistance occurs when both genes are present. Both are recessive, so relatively easy to recover, but they won't occur in an F1 population of resistant X non-resistant cross, since a recessive gene needs to be homozygous for expression - you would expect 1/4 of the F2 population to express one of the resistant genes from such a cross, or 1/16 to have both the PM resistant genes if one of the original parents had both. I disagree with ferdzy - I reckon crossing peas is easy, with a little care and practice. There are a number of strategies you can use to reduce PM - increase air flow, reduce moisture on leaves - plant in open rows with good air circulation, don't water the foliage, prune to keep the foliage open - this is very tedious. I suspect there might be horizontal resistance strategies that could be used - semi-leafless peas have less foliage=more air ciculation, and I suspect there are leaf surface characteristics that might be explored that would help. I've observed a number of different survival strategies in peas from full resistance - the plants just don't get PM while their neighbours do, through to getting the disease but still growing and producing, through total succumbing. get out the forceps and start breeding! T
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Post by templeton on Aug 19, 2017 23:01:34 GMT -5
no idea. will be interested to see if it appears again this year, or if it was just an optical illusion. t
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Post by templeton on Aug 19, 2017 2:32:40 GMT -5
Hi Day, I didn't actually do a cross, but I did start grexing up the favas. I just took everything out of the fridge, sowed them into a marginal bed, harvested the best ones. I grew a bunch of crimsons separately, but they did get a bit of stray pollen since i got a couple of pinks this season which I've rogued, since I've got a market for red flowered fave seed. rowan reckons the red flowereds taste better. So this year I've replanted a glossy podded fava that i noticed in the growout, the best survivor, and the rest, and these have been planted into separate beds - I can really only grow about 20 plants in each bed, so not a huge genetic base in each group. awaiting results apart from the reds, which are already flowering and getting hammered by rattus rattus eating all the young leaves. T
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Post by templeton on Aug 14, 2017 22:38:03 GMT -5
Just a thought - no experience with this, but could you use the techniques florists use to keep blooms alive longer to maintain the cut scapes? I think they use a bit of sugar (for nutrients) in the water, with a dash of vinegar for acidification to suppress bacterial and mould growth. Might work. T
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Post by templeton on Aug 13, 2017 17:40:51 GMT -5
Holly, they have been transplanted there - there is nowhere else for them to go. We were pretty rough with them. so hopefully they survive. Already a little bit of variety in them - tho that might have come from the mispoona - I note that this year they are selling a selection of mispoona, suggesting it might have had a bit of variety initially. T
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Post by templeton on Aug 13, 2017 0:44:37 GMT -5
A couple of ideas - have a look at my motorcycle battery powered computer fan seed cleaner that philagardener linked above - or search on youtube for a couple of diferent vids - it was way easier to build than the real seeds one, but less volume, and less efficient - you could make one in an evening with thick cardboard and duct tape - there are a few like this on youtube. Next time i would use wider timber and make it larger capacity and use a normal 100mm computer fan. I also use a ridged/grooved non-slip rubber mat with about 3 mm ridges on it for de-husking allium seed. Its about the size of a double sheet of office paper, glued to a bit of ply, on an incline, and i just use heavy rubber gloves to rub the seed capsules up and down the board. An alternative to a big rubber sheet is to use soft rubber shoes to do the stomping. my video features highly fashionable two-tone EVA clogs - NOT Crocs mind you - you know about the holes in Crocs? That's where your dignity leaks out... T
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Post by templeton on Aug 13, 2017 0:28:57 GMT -5
Was going to start a new thread but thought I might bump this one. Another paper on crossing between brassicas is this NZ one here www.agronomysociety.org.nz/files/2002_9._Review_-_Brassica_cross-pollination.pdfI am very short of space and wanted to do a bit of mass crossing of a couple of B.napa varieties (Hon Tsai Tai and Mispoona) that were flowering in beds that i need for new crops, and the only free bed for transplanting was next to some couve tronchuda, presumably B.oleracea. Following this NZ paper i transplanted the flowering mustards, but the paper published in an earlier post suggests that the mustards will easily cross with the CT. Anyone got any ideas or practical experience? I suppose i will find out in a couple of years Of interest was the graph of cross pollinating vs distance - suggesting - as Joseph Lofthouse lofthouse has in other threads - that 20 metres is probably far enough. T
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Post by templeton on Aug 12, 2017 5:09:24 GMT -5
keen101 (Biolumo / Andrew B.) thanks for the offer, but I will decline. Our new 'Borderforce' has the scariest uniforms...Anyway, I have heaps of stuff to go on with, really need to improve my purple snows and yellow snows and trying to stabilise a red snow. No room! T
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Post by templeton on Aug 9, 2017 9:29:21 GMT -5
richardw, I've emailed damien from mudflower, see if he is still there... T
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Post by templeton on Aug 8, 2017 8:32:03 GMT -5
davidb, thank you so much for the information. I'm now cursing that i didn't look after mine better Maybe damien at mudflower is still around in australia, richard. I'll try and email him. T
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Post by templeton on Aug 4, 2017 23:53:53 GMT -5
mine died. Info would be good.
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Post by templeton on Aug 2, 2017 5:05:43 GMT -5
Luckily we dont have Lyme disease here, but our ticks are venomous and can confer a life-threatening allergy to red meat in some victims. Luckily not where i live t
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Post by templeton on Aug 2, 2017 4:56:09 GMT -5
Thanks holly. Will do. Just about to plant out my mill creeks
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