Post by canadamike on Sept 24, 2008 0:28:14 GMT -5
I thought that could interest orchardiss here:
Biodynamic Tree paste
We are no longer offering the biodynamic tree paste for sale, mainly as it is a cheap and easy preparation to make, but costs a fortune to send through the post, so for those who want to have a go themselves here is the 'recipe' and some useful instructions.
The tree paste has proved a very effective way of maintaining healthy trees with a smooth bark, healing lesions, and protecting trees against pests, especially those which hibernate underneath the bark, or in the crevices e.g. sucking insects, scale, aphids, wholly aphids, etc. That is, provided that the job is done right. The principle is that the entire tree, trunk, branches, twigs, buds is thoroughly covered with the paste. This restores a healthy trunk and the many pests that hibernate and lay their eggs on the outer twigs and near the buds, for instance bud borer, aphids and scale are also counteracted by the past. It is especially important that not only the under side of the branch is covered, but the entire branch, including the dead corners where the branching off takes place, and that no bark remains to giver hiding places. Any lesion of the timber can be painted with the paste, which is a much better procedure than covering with tar, oil, asphalt or paint, as is usually done. Holes in the trunk should be cleaned out and filled with paste. If eggs, larvae and scale are covered with the paste, it will exclude the air from them and they will perish. Since this paste is entirely harmless, and in no way toxic, it is and ideal means of protecting the tree and avoiding poisonous sprays. We have even sprayed it on green foliage,when this was attacked by pests and fungi (rust for instance and mildew), so that the leaves were entirely 'painted yellow'. The rain vashes it off eventually and leaves recover with a healthy green shine.
The original recipe for tree paste was:
1/3 Sticky clay
1/3 Cow manure
1/3 Fine sand
This mixture is approximate, for the sticky quality varies and the proportions have to be somewhat altered accordingly. As much water is added as is needed so that the past can be easily applied and still stick to the tree. Add equisetum preparation (horsetail tea), extract of nasturtium plants against aphids, or other ingredients that one wants to apply. For many years it was the biodynamic practise to apply the paste, in the solution form, with a whitewash brush, by hand, to the trunk and larger branches. Nowadays on finds few orchardists who want to paint a tree by hand and we admit it is rather a messy procedure, but hand applicatin may still be the easiest method for a few trees but for a large orchard spraying is really the only way to do it.
The paste can be used in Autumn when the leaves have fallen off, or in Spring as a pre-emergence spray (before the buds open, but after the main frost period is over).
Ref: The biodynamic treatment of Fruit trees, berries and shrubs by Ehrenfried E. Pfeiffer.
Biodynamic Tree paste
We are no longer offering the biodynamic tree paste for sale, mainly as it is a cheap and easy preparation to make, but costs a fortune to send through the post, so for those who want to have a go themselves here is the 'recipe' and some useful instructions.
The tree paste has proved a very effective way of maintaining healthy trees with a smooth bark, healing lesions, and protecting trees against pests, especially those which hibernate underneath the bark, or in the crevices e.g. sucking insects, scale, aphids, wholly aphids, etc. That is, provided that the job is done right. The principle is that the entire tree, trunk, branches, twigs, buds is thoroughly covered with the paste. This restores a healthy trunk and the many pests that hibernate and lay their eggs on the outer twigs and near the buds, for instance bud borer, aphids and scale are also counteracted by the past. It is especially important that not only the under side of the branch is covered, but the entire branch, including the dead corners where the branching off takes place, and that no bark remains to giver hiding places. Any lesion of the timber can be painted with the paste, which is a much better procedure than covering with tar, oil, asphalt or paint, as is usually done. Holes in the trunk should be cleaned out and filled with paste. If eggs, larvae and scale are covered with the paste, it will exclude the air from them and they will perish. Since this paste is entirely harmless, and in no way toxic, it is and ideal means of protecting the tree and avoiding poisonous sprays. We have even sprayed it on green foliage,when this was attacked by pests and fungi (rust for instance and mildew), so that the leaves were entirely 'painted yellow'. The rain vashes it off eventually and leaves recover with a healthy green shine.
The original recipe for tree paste was:
1/3 Sticky clay
1/3 Cow manure
1/3 Fine sand
This mixture is approximate, for the sticky quality varies and the proportions have to be somewhat altered accordingly. As much water is added as is needed so that the past can be easily applied and still stick to the tree. Add equisetum preparation (horsetail tea), extract of nasturtium plants against aphids, or other ingredients that one wants to apply. For many years it was the biodynamic practise to apply the paste, in the solution form, with a whitewash brush, by hand, to the trunk and larger branches. Nowadays on finds few orchardists who want to paint a tree by hand and we admit it is rather a messy procedure, but hand applicatin may still be the easiest method for a few trees but for a large orchard spraying is really the only way to do it.
The paste can be used in Autumn when the leaves have fallen off, or in Spring as a pre-emergence spray (before the buds open, but after the main frost period is over).
Ref: The biodynamic treatment of Fruit trees, berries and shrubs by Ehrenfried E. Pfeiffer.
