|
Post by albertagardener1 on Jan 21, 2009 3:30:34 GMT -5
When the ground thaws I would like to construct a GREENHOUSE. However, here is my dilemma. I have looked over and seen various types and have narrowed it down to either a vertical walled with pitch roof or a Quonset style.
So if I could get some feed back to your type and the pros/cons this would help me and probably some others also.
I am located in the CHINOOK ZONE of southern Alberta if that would be of any help.
Here's to a great growing season to you all.
MILO / albertagardener1
|
|
|
Post by plantsnobin on Jan 21, 2009 9:31:29 GMT -5
Could you tell us more about what you are wanting from your greenhouse? Will it have to be freestanding, or can it be attached to the south side of a building? What temperature do you want to keep it at?
|
|
|
Post by grunt on Jan 21, 2009 11:41:52 GMT -5
Milo, you made it! Good to see you here. Dan & Val
|
|
|
Post by albertagardener1 on Jan 23, 2009 3:41:53 GMT -5
The location of the greenhouse will be in an open field (formerly horse pasture) running north/south direction. The area around our acreage is all open pasture. Most of the time about 4 pm there is a westerly wind. It can vary in intensity. We are in the CHINOOK ZONE on the east side of the ROCKIES bordering the foothills and prairies so in the winter and early spring the warm westerly winds can change the temperature from below zero to 50 - 60 degrees F within a matter of a few hours. Great farming & ranching country.
I have a friend who is involved with alternative energy so we are looking at the best way to heat the greenhouse efficiently and at the least amount of cost. So the temperature in the winter months will need to sustain TOMATOES.
To begin with the greenhouse will grow cool weather produce then some TOMATOES later when the weather is warmer. I will start the seedlings in a hoophouse setting within the greenhouse then later some of the TOMATOES will be moved to an open air field setting.
Hopefully this gives you some insight . . . if not write again.
Thanks for your interest and reply.
MILO / albertagardener1
|
|
|
Post by canadamike on Jan 23, 2009 4:52:16 GMT -5
There will be some space lost to tomato production on a quonset, but the sides can be used for smaller plantings/growing benches ( not sure of the last term in english ). Around here most professional growers go for vertical walls, a good sign it is probably preferable.
On the other hand, large walk in hoophouses are relatively cheap.
I would go for a used straight wall if I could, that is what I am looking for here, they can go for cheap.
|
|
|
Post by plantsnobin on Jan 23, 2009 8:39:13 GMT -5
Well, I don't know how much you want to spend, or if you want a permanent set up, but if I ever get to build my fantasy greenhouse, here is what it would be. Pit type, with in-ground heating system, with the heat source a wood furnace. It is generally recommended that greenhouses run east/west. In your climate maybe 16 mm twinwall polycarbonate on the south wall and south half of the roof, with rigid wall and roof on north wall and roof. Plant a windbreak around it to slow down those winds, and you have the right idea about a 'greenhouse' within the greenhouse for starting the heat loving plants. A small heating cable can really do the job in an enclosed bench in an unheated greenhouse.
|
|
|
Post by albertagardener1 on Jan 29, 2009 16:42:10 GMT -5
plantsnobin - KAREN & canadamike - MICHEL
Thanks for your info. I have a large scribbler so when I have the time to set a spell I let my mind wander through the things I've read and seen about GREENHOUSES and my desires for its design.
KAREN, would you tell me more about the "PIT" concept you mentioned?
MICHEL - The VERTICAL wall type is what I've chosen. Over the last several years I have been fortunate to get glass from various sources so the walls will be framed in glass. Because I have a wood shop, the equipment is there to build it. The top will be a gradual arch that will be covered with a UV resistant plastic. Operating air vents.
The north portion will have solid wall with a double entry to get into the work area. ON the north wall there will be an access door close to the ground. This will allow me to bring the compost from the compost pit and bring it up to the access door and put it inside the work area. Then from the inside of the greenhouse the work benches are situated so that the compost can be accessed to fill the seedling trays.
I want to design it so that it can produce year round mostly for salad crops in the winter, that way my clientele will be able to get high quality "AUTHENTIC FOODS". Then in the summer the open-air items can be grown along with the berry bushes that are established.
I've got some more ideas but they will require some more thinking.
Have a great day.
MILO / albertagardener1
|
|
|
Post by plantsnobin on Jan 29, 2009 19:22:36 GMT -5
In the old days, people used solar powered pit greenhouses. It is basically about 4 ft of the wall under ground level, about up to bench level. Then however tall you want it to be above.
|
|
|
Post by cff on Jan 29, 2009 19:50:31 GMT -5
|
|
|
Post by Alan on Jan 30, 2009 13:41:47 GMT -5
If you live somewhere with heavy snow or ice cover in the winter time the only way to go is with a gothic structure. You don't really loose much room at all with Gothic or Qonset type structures as long as you are growing and actively looking for varieties that fit you indoor growing needs. The gothic shape makes it much easier to take care of snow and ice allowing it to slide safely from the peak to the ground. You can use a push broom to lightly push the plastic from the inside to break up any snow or ice cover which will then slide down the sides. Pit designs work very well. East/West directions are ok, but from personal experience North South Directions seem to work a little better as they pick up the sun in a more evenly divided way, if you face them East/West you are only picking up direct sun on one long side of the greenhouse, if you are growing tomatoes in the winter time you will have issues getting the ones on the opposite side of the house to ripen the right way and may add as much as two weeks to their DTM.
|
|