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Post by MikeH on Mar 3, 2012 5:13:54 GMT -5
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Post by richardw on Mar 3, 2012 12:45:50 GMT -5
Hey thats interesting reading,i see it will do well in zone 4-8 US, so that should suit you mike,are you going buy tree?? I recommend them,i like them best just before they are soft and still have a bit of crunch when you bite them...yummy  |
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Post by MikeH on Mar 3, 2012 21:24:19 GMT -5
Hey thats interesting reading,i see it will do well in zone 4-8 US, so that should suit you mike,are you going buy tree?? I recommend them,i like them best just before they are soft and still have a bit of crunch when you bite them...yummy Richard, The GRIN material is very interesting. I have a contact from whom I managed to acquire this this year. Although I have the rootstock, it's too late to do anything this year. Scion wood has already shipped. But, as with all gardening, there's next year. As for pits coming into Canada, good question. On first reading, they are exempt. However, it seems to me that if the CBSA opens them who knows where they end up. I suspect that it's safer to fly under the radar. Nonetheless, I've emailed them for clarification. Non-commercial importations
Importers of "small lots" of seeds are exempt from the Seed Analysis Certificate and Seed Import Declaration requirements. These shipments may be released by the Canada Border Services Agency if no other requirements are listed.
Notes
There are no exemptions to the Canadian Food Inspection Agency's (CFIA) requirements outlined in this section, and all importations will be referred to the CFIA for release.I'd appreciate it if you could put the word out among friends. Once I've heard back from CFIA, we can work out details. It would seem that Canada quietly adopted a white list approach last year so who knows how the game will be played. Regards, Mike |
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Post by richardw on Mar 3, 2012 23:53:50 GMT -5
I suppose when i do send some i'll write on the botanical name as well,best to keep it above board hey
Ive put the word out on a NZ gardening forum and have already had a reply from someone who said that hers are not quite ready but will send some to me when they are.
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Post by raymondo on Mar 9, 2012 17:40:03 GMT -5
Black Boy is a very impressive peach Richard. I've never heard of them here in Australia. Where I live, the only peaches you can grow must be early fruiters to avoid the dreaded Queensland Fruit Fly or dwarves that can be covered.
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Post by johno on Apr 1, 2012 8:07:13 GMT -5
Black Boy is probably too early for this location, but it sure sounds good!
My seed-grown peaches are growing nicely this year. I'm either going to espalier them or simply grow a peach hedge. Most peaches get their blossoms frozen off here in the valley, so I planted them about 15' behind the north side of the house in hopes that that will delay flowering.
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Post by richardw on Apr 1, 2012 15:23:43 GMT -5
Its a bit the same here too johno,some years the frosts knock all the bloom and there's no fruit,thats way i like apples,at least they flower over a longer period and will always get at least some fruit.
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Post by johninfla on Jun 13, 2012 7:32:35 GMT -5
I had some flowers onmy Criolle Peaches this year, no fruit just a few blossoms. That is their second spring from seed. I'm hoping to see the fruit next spring.
John
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James
grub
Greetings from Utah -- James
Posts: 93
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Post by James on Oct 28, 2012 14:09:33 GMT -5
I have grown apricot, apple, peach, plum and walnut from seed. My technique is to plant the seed in the garden in the fall. It usually germinates in the spring. Pretty good percentage anyway. I let it grow the first season where it germinated, then move it to its permanent location.
Some trees can be easily started by cuttings. I like to make 10 inch slips of wood about 1/4 to 1/2 inch diameter. Put these in the ground in the fall with one bud above ground. Willow, cottonwood, poplar root very well doing this. I haven't tried it with any fruit trees. That would be great if they would, you could clone your trees. Any one tried starting apple, plum, peach, apricot by rooting cuttings?
Oh, ya, you can get a rooting hormone to treat the stock with prior to planting, that may help it root.
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Post by MikeH on Oct 28, 2012 14:37:27 GMT -5
Any one tried starting apple, plum, peach, apricot by rooting cuttings? Pretty tough to get softwood or hardwood cuttings to take even with a growth hormone. Trench layering is a far better bet. I use trench layering because I can get multiple clones at a time. It's also a good way to get a grafted fruit or nut tree onto its own root. I use root cuttings when I'm not sure if the species will trench layer. I don't want to risk killing it. I also use root cuttings when I'm trying to propagate rootstock on a grafted tree. Here's my collected research on root cuttings - docs.google.com/folder/d/0B4z8GE1bbsDjSGNsNDdMRmV2SzA/editSo far, I've had success with root cuttings of beach plum, Russian almond, male sea buckthorn, cherry, and persimmon. This spring I'll be having a go at quince, hawthorn, service berry, goumi, Cornelian cherry, and yellowhorn. And I have trench layering going for a number of rootstocks - apple (dwarf, semi-dwarf, & standard), pear, cherry, plum, apricot, peach. This spring I'll add hazel, northern pecan, and heartnut. I'm still trying to figure out how to clone pawpaw. No one seems to have had much success other than by grafting. I find that a bit strange since it seems that pawpaw suckers. Edit: Fix link. |
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Post by Deleted on Nov 10, 2012 20:21:15 GMT -5
I'm getting initial successes with air layering experiments, finding that moistened, folded strips of newspaper hold plenty of water, and are much easier to wrap around branches than moss. I spray it with a water sprayer, before and after wrapping.
My first few layers were wrapped in cellophane, which was barely enough. It would get small punctures, from wearing through. This did not cause any problems. But, I started to use thicker plastic from a firewood bundler. These are the same spools, which are used to wrap pallets -- much thicker than saran wrap from the kitchen. If this is poorly made at the factory, the edges will be somewhat fused together, useless on the machine, but easy to use by hand. Factory seconds are a bargain. There are even sturdier, opaque materials, which you could wrap with, but I like to see the roots.
I was going overboard with zipties, or too many knots. Double knotted kite string was more than good enough.
My branches get callousing, which looks like yellow cauliflower. This is where roots come from, preferably, when it is still attached to the tree. No hormones or chemicals are necessary. I cut away a clean ring of the bark to the woody layer. When I ask permission, I just take anything which would be removed by ordinary pruning, anyway.
I heard it was preferable to use smallish sticks, but found these would dry out soonest. Thicker sticks hold in moisture and energy, have done better for me once planted.
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Post by MikeH on Nov 11, 2012 9:59:46 GMT -5
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Post by MikeH on Nov 11, 2012 10:19:22 GMT -5
I'm getting initial successes with air layering experiments, What sorts of things are you air layering? |
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Post by Deleted on Nov 12, 2012 11:59:56 GMT -5
I'm getting initial successes with air layering experiments, What sorts of things are you air layering? Right now, I'm working on citrus -- tangerines, limes, white grapefruit, and lemons. These calloused most vigorously and grew obvious roots from those callouses. Pomegranate and pear calloused without producing roots. Just kept growing when potted. Cherries, plums, apricots, persimmons calloused only slightly, would seem to take months, as opposed to weeks, to grow adventitious roots. I would like to try this on woodier portions of established herbs -- rosemary, oregano, and lavender. |
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Post by Deleted on Nov 12, 2012 12:04:04 GMT -5
I research what makes the best root stock, but this appears to be a tightly controlled, even patented, trade secret.
The best hint I got was to establish different cultivars of the same plant. This gives you the widest possible range of genetic material. Any of these might be grafted to the stock which does best in your particular area.
Chimerism might result, where callouses meet, which can be good or bad, depending on your intended traits.
Grafting was of particular concern to me, because we are semi-arid. IMHO, most nursery stock is coming from the more moist, north and east, or it was intended to thrive there. Local planting systems encouraged shallow, lateral roots, opened up city mains, and flooded the orchards. The practice is now either illegal or cost prohibitive, as producers no longer garner privileged status. Most of the trees have died, perhaps unnecessarily.
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