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Post by sandbar on Oct 16, 2009 20:02:58 GMT -5
Recently, I read an article that mentioned that a north-facing slope helped keep fruit trees from budding out too early in the spring and losing blooms to a late frost.
We have two 3 acre fields at the farm that are on a gentle, north-facing slope. These two fields are currently commercially row cropped (corn/beans). As I am trying to develop a master plan for the farm, I am perplexed as to where to locate an orchard. We are interested in growing apples, plums, peaches, pears, etc. and I'm wondering if these two locations are the smartest places to put the orchard.
Any thoughts on using a north-facing slope for an orchard? Or, is this something that isn't really a concern and I should be looking at other environmental factors that are much more important?
Thanks,
Steve.
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Post by johno on Oct 17, 2009 0:53:09 GMT -5
Fruit trees on a north slope is conventional wisdom in these parts. Early budding is serious business, and there are few practical ways to prevent it.
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Post by castanea on Oct 17, 2009 23:45:18 GMT -5
Probably true for most things, but it depends on what you are growing. Some trees bud out later anyway and some trees may need the additional warmth of a south slope. Case in point - Asian persimmons. They usually bud out late anyway but if grown in zone 6 they may also need the warmth of the south facing slope.
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Post by grungy on Oct 17, 2009 23:57:27 GMT -5
Are you subject to unexpected late frost or when spriing arrives it is actually spring?
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Post by sandbar on Oct 24, 2009 23:23:30 GMT -5
Val, we have been having late frosts here the past few years. Local fruit growers haven't had a peach crop in about 3 years ... keep losing the buds to frost.
Normal last frost date is May 15th here. Last year we had a frost on May 30. This year on May 21.
My interest is to begin building a small orchard with various fruit trees for personal consumption and to sell some at market. I'm not planning on starting a huge orchard. I just looked at those two 3 acre plots and began to think it might delay the budding process enough to escape the late frosts.
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Post by silverseeds on Oct 25, 2009 0:19:05 GMT -5
sandbar, I forget who it was, but someone on this forum mentioned how you can towards the end of winter, pile up a bunch of snow around the base of a peach tree, to delay the budding process, for two weeks. Keep the root system cooler for that much longer I guess. Wouldnt work for a whole orchard, but a few trees, it sounds like it would work great.
I intend to try it on my pinon (nut bearing pine) trees, this year. they need water at a very specific time to set nuts, which is dampness left over from snowmelt, since there simply isnt (or rarely) rain at that time, in early early spring.
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Post by grungy on Oct 25, 2009 1:04:55 GMT -5
Sandbar, what I would be tempted to do is plant on the north slope. Come fall wrap you tree trunks with wire window screen up to about 18"-24" from the ground. (Keeps the mice from having a field day on the bark.) When the soil freezes hard, layer a bunch of mulch at least 6-8" deep and out past the drip line of the leaves then cover the mulch with snow so that you basically provide about 2-3 weeks extra winter for you trees. Once you are fairly sure you are past hard frost (In your case May 15-20th), remove the mulch and let the soil start warming up.
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Post by silverseeds on Oct 25, 2009 1:29:18 GMT -5
yeah a heavy mulch will keep the soil from warming as fast, so mulching while its cold, probably would keep it even cooler longer, I still like the snow idea though.....
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Post by grungy on Oct 25, 2009 4:37:13 GMT -5
Snow act as insulation and slow moisture release in the spring. In your climate SS a snow cap around the roots probably is the best.
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