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Post by Alan on Nov 15, 2009 21:23:25 GMT -5
Hey Karen (plantsnoobin), as you once said, I finally did go ahead and do it and got me some rabbits
I even went out of the way and built several relatively nice hutches, two singles which I scabed together out of some available materials and one triple which I scabbed together made out of an old potting bench, once spring version 2.0 (actually late fall) in Indiana passes by I'll post some pics to the blog. I also have started building the next three chambered hutch as well and have plans for at least two more, these also include a manure catchment system for the added benefit of red worm compost feeding BTW.
Anyhow, for anyone else here reading, do any of you raise rabbits? If so, any advice. Anything from feed stock, water, shelter, hutches, genetics, whatever useful information you can share would be greatly appreciated.
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Post by plantsnobin on Nov 16, 2009 9:54:10 GMT -5
Well, it's about time. You will love the poo. I'm totally serious. I am obsessed with the poo. Here is the basic rundown, but you probably already know all this. First off, they can take the cold better than the heat. As long as they are out of the wind you don't really have to worry about the cold temps that we get here. Summer is a different story. Keep them from overheating, whick can kill them quick. We use frozen 2-liter bottles. They will lay next to them to keep cool. For watering we like the Lixit brand water bottles with the wide lid. They are a lot sturdier than the Havahart brand, with easier to fill lids. Sure, you can use crocks, but the water won't be clean. As far as feed goes, don't go too high protein. None of the feed mills keep their rations constant, changing around things as prices change. We use Purina Fiber 3, no corn formula, but it is $13 to $14 a bag. We know people who use whatever is cheapest, and it doesn't make a whole lot of difference. Don't overfeed. 6-8 ounces for a meat breed is plenty. Yes, they will act like they are starving when you feed them, but if you stick around a few minutes you will see that they gobble for a couple minutes then save the rest for later. You will have trouble breeding with fat rabbits. Always remember to put the doe in the bucks cage, not the other way around. Does will defend their home, bucks are just happy to be getting some. Sometimes a rabbit will die for no apparent reason, and there is nothing much you can do for a sick rabbit except take it off feed and give it timothy hay. Not alfalfa. Timothy. Rabbits' digestive system is a sensitive thing and some will go off feed once in a while. Give it a chance, if it doesn't start eating again in a couple of days, cull. Always quarantine new rabbits to see if they develop signs of snuffles. Cull any rabbit that sneezes snot. Linebreeding is the way it is done in rabbits, nasty as that sounds to us. Once you find that magical combo that gives you what you are looking for, you stick with it. Like you said, not brother and sister, but parents & offspring, and yes that goes on for generations. Though there are some technicalities with that, as in you don't breed a broken to a broken or you might get a 'charlie'. But you aren't going to be concerned with that since you won't be showing. If you built wooden hutches, know that they will chew through the wood eventually unless you cover any exposed wood with wire. You can give them apple wood trimmings to chew on, and some like to play with a golf ball. Oh, nest boxes. 28 days after breeding, put in a nest box with straw. That gives her enough time to make a comfy nest but make sure she isn't soiling it. After she has her litter, give her all the feed she wants while she is nursing. Those hairless little things will be growing and getting out of the nest box before you know it. Nothing cuter than a baby bunny. There will be a spring rabbit show in Charlestown, not sure yet of the date. You should go to get an idea of what all breeds are available. I am partial to the Champagne D'Argent myself and that may be the breed we get next. It is a great meat breed, but just about too pretty to eat if you ask me. There, that is about all I know about rabbits. Did I mention they have the best poo?
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Post by Alan on Nov 17, 2009 21:18:51 GMT -5
Thanks Karen! Lots of good information to digest!
I got my new hutch done today, now I'll start breeding these guys and getting some rabbits to feed up for freezer purposes.
I called the regulatory agency here in Indiana about rabbit production, check this out.....
Poultry, as you already know, is unregulated all the way up to slaughtering 1,000 animals as long as it is to go directly to the consumer.
Rabbits are regulated from the moment the first one is slaughtered!
What a bunch of crap!
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Post by plantsnobin on Nov 18, 2009 9:44:57 GMT -5
Yes, technically it is a no no. Don't worry about it. Just don't advertise that you do it. Although we know people who do in fact have it on their sign and they haven't had any problem in probably 20 years of doing it.
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Post by silverseeds on Nov 18, 2009 9:57:28 GMT -5
Karen, is it possible to let the rabbits forage for themselves? I envisioned two areas for them, and Id reseed things they liked, and let them go to each side when it was grown up enough....
Im sure Id need to supplement food I grow as well, but Im curious f you ever heard of anyone doing anything like that.....
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Post by mjc on Nov 18, 2009 10:10:41 GMT -5
If you've got wild rabbits, keep the ones you are raising off the ground...it opens a door for a legion of parasites/diseases.
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Post by silverseeds on Nov 18, 2009 10:27:21 GMT -5
Ok mjc. I didnt know that. theres all kinds of wild rabbits here. I was actually thinking of catching and raising them..... since they already know how to forage here, and get by with so little of water.
I figured if I kept the predators from eating them, and kept them healthier I could eat the excess instead of the predators....
So I guess that type of sstem has all its own issues??? I figured as much....
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Post by plantsnobin on Nov 18, 2009 12:15:13 GMT -5
While I understand the temptation to let rabbits free range, I do not think it is a practical way of raising them to eat. You can certainly try growing a lot of their feed, we don't bother with that right now, but we are raising them for show rather than meat, although we do have a trio of Californians that we sometimes butcher from. The main objective is to get them quickly to butchering size. They aren't going to do that if they are having to forage for their own food. Meat quality might not be as tender either, I would think. Then there is also the issue of catching them to butcher. When you are ready to butcher, you want the animal as calm and quiet as possible. I have seen Amish around here who do let their rabbits run wild. Then run around like maniacs trying to catch them when someone wants to buy one. Bad idea. Rabbits easily die of heart attack when frightened, or overheated. They can be raised in a chicken tractor sort of system though. I don't know that it would be worth the effort though, I guess in some situations it would be ok. But I think overall cages just work better. They really don't take much time to feed and look after, as long as you can keep them cool enough in summer.
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Post by silverseeds on Nov 18, 2009 12:58:49 GMT -5
Karen what is the chicken tractor method?
I figured meat quality would be lessened. and quantity. I just figured it would be easier to manage. I will likely buy food also, but I want to be able to do it by myself if the need arises....
thanks for your help....
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Post by plantsnobin on Nov 18, 2009 13:58:23 GMT -5
A small enclosed pen that is movable. Used for chickens so that you can move them to new pasture every day.
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Post by silverseeds on Nov 18, 2009 14:26:17 GMT -5
Oh wow, I like that idea alot.... Im going to have to think about that one.
for chicken and rabbits.
That could work well with another idea I had. I was thinking with chickens I could plant some hardy grasses or something in a row next to each garden row. then brush the plants in the row, and get a portion of the grasshoppers (my main garden pest) to jump to the row of grasses. Where the chickens could get to them.
but I couldnt figure out how to cover more then a few rows like that, and I will bet the chickens would rip out the grass before to long. But if I can move their pen around and I set my rows up right I might be able to pull it off wihout much extra effort, and keeping my "traps" intact.
something I can look into anyway.
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Post by Alan on Nov 20, 2009 16:53:17 GMT -5
I don't think I'll be letting mine free range for meat consumption purposes, just far too many predators and the rabbits have such a high motabilism that if let to run they would never put on much weight, but if I wanted to, I think it could be done if one were careful.
Do a google search for raising meat rabbits in Europe, I've heard this is common there.
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mayfinnfarm
gopher
mayfinnfarm *~Bloomin where we're planted!~*
Posts: 20
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Post by mayfinnfarm on Dec 7, 2009 17:10:59 GMT -5
This may be a stupid question, but y'all got me thinking....if I were to put a couple rabbits in a chicken tractor type set up, basically a hutch on wheels, would I be able to put it directly over the garden? Or wouldn't their urine be a problem for the soil?
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Post by plantsnobin on Dec 7, 2009 18:26:03 GMT -5
No, the urine shouldn't be a problem at all.
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Post by silverseeds on Dec 7, 2009 21:03:13 GMT -5
Ive got a question.... how high of a fence do you need for rbbits??? Im not only asking for when I raise them poissibly, but also to keep them out of my gardens if need be......
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