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Post by Leenstar on Aug 30, 2011 20:21:19 GMT -5
I have look longingly at different fruit trees for my suburban yard. Part of it is shaded. I have considered trying out an espelier system along a fence and perhaps along the garage.
If sounds like a good idea but I have some questions
1. Against a building, doesn't the root system cause an issue with the building foundation?
2. Any special consideration for spacing and intervals for an espelier system
3. Do people typically use a grafted variety on a dwarf root stock?
4. Anyone with experience- did you buy it or make your own?
5. Any good advice or books or cautionary tales?
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Post by canadamike on Aug 30, 2011 20:51:55 GMT -5
I have not trained fruit trees in espalier, but I have seen a lot of them. Do not worry about the root system, I do not know of any ''regular'' fruit tree that has roots dangerous for foundations.
Those I saw were about 16 inches centres from the walls then trained close to them.
I doubt you can use a dwarfing rootstock for them, unless you want them very small.
I am sure our european friends here have more complete answers than mine.
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Post by Joseph Lofthouse on Aug 30, 2011 21:45:18 GMT -5
I made my own, using semi-dwarf apples, as a "Belgium fence" along the property line. My only advice is that they are plants, and they have a will of their own, and will do what they want regardless of how any human thinks things should be done.
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Post by 12540dumont on Aug 31, 2011 0:03:31 GMT -5
Espalier is French for: get out your Felcos and prune and trim, or they'll get away from you.
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coppice
gardener
gardening curmudgeon
Posts: 149
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Post by coppice on Aug 31, 2011 6:28:48 GMT -5
I have look longingly at different fruit trees for my suburban yard. Part of it is shaded. I have considered trying out an espelier system along a fence and perhaps along the garage. If sounds like a good idea but I have some questions 1. Against a building, doesn't the root system cause an issue with the building foundation? Malus and prunus should not cause foundation problems. Run off from the roof drip edge can--to the tree(s). Espalier are usually pruned far shorter and less wide than their full size can aquire. This is closer cousin to topiary than a fruit orchard. Both can be used. Made mine, this needs an agressive hand to both prune and tie down to frame. FWIW training never ever ends. if you don't wake up and run to your garden to tinker with it, or have a gardener, espalier (or bonsai) may not be for you. |
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Post by ottawagardener on Aug 31, 2011 7:03:30 GMT -5
I fanned a plum tree and my parents always had a trained peach against the front of their house and a hedgerow of apples. My experience is that you have to be happy with a pair of pruners like has been said but that if you are not looking for perfection then once/twice a year cuttings worked for me. However, I do wake up and run to my garden  |
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Post by steev on Aug 31, 2011 17:03:27 GMT -5
Living in the generally too-cool Bay Area, I splayed a Brown Turkey fig against the south stucco wall of my house. For awhile, it worked like a dream. Walking past it, I could smell the figs, if any were fully ripe. The early crop grew so large, it took me five big bites to eat one. Fig-lover heaven; then the squirrels came and I never got another ripe fig; they don't mind the latex at all, so no fig ever got closer than a week to ripe. Have I mentioned how much I loathe rodents?
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Post by 12540dumont on Aug 31, 2011 18:54:46 GMT -5
Ahh, the turkey fig! I have a Black Mission..in a pot, always wanted one of those brown guys.
When we lived in Los Gatos, there was a huge fig that went plop plop on the house. It was a siren call for rodents. Leo took a branch and threw a bird net over it and put a collar around the trunk so the squirrel rodents couldn't climb up it. Alas, the roof rats outwitted us and gnawed a hole through the net.
In Willow Glen my aunt had an espaliered fig. She carried her clippers in the pocket of her apron. She took me to see a Japanese neighbor who had a bonsai fig. It had one big/giant fig on a little gnarled tree. He told me the tree was 20 years old. I didn't believe him at the time...but now I think he was a fellow with a pair of clippers in his overalls.
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Post by steev on Sept 1, 2011 0:27:16 GMT -5
I've always got my clippers on my belt. Always ready to deadhead a spent flower, prune an unwanted branch, cut off a squash, open a sack, cut irrigation tubing, tighten/loosen a screw, snip a slug, harvest grapes, dig a small hole, serve as a wrench, scribe a board, pry something open, remove a zip-tie, loosen a knot, trim my toenails, ream out my earwax, and tame my nose-hair. My one-blade Swiss Army clippers, I don't leave home without them.
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Post by templeton on Sept 5, 2011 20:20:13 GMT -5
I have espaliered apricots - 3 varieties, and a nectarine and an apple. I would recommend dwarfing rootstock - The theory re espalier is less tops means less bottoms, so roots shouldn't be a problem - thwe tree won't grow some huge root system if its only got a small canopy. The point of pruning is twofold - to reduce the size of the tree, and to maximise fruiting wood. Each of the fruit trees will require different strategies. Pruning at different times of the year willencourage different sorts of growth - check a good espalier book. My apricots are on unknown rootstock, and rather than train them into some regimental pattern, I just bent the branches against a chain link fence, and tied them down, all random. A big advantage of espalier is closer planting, and less demanding trees, meaning you can grow a lot more varieties of fruit in a small area, stretching harvest times, and watering requirments. Grow 'em close to your veges since the roots aren't that invasive. Since mine are against a fence, netting the trees to keep possums, fruit bats and birds off is much easier - chuck the net over the fence, draped over the esplaier, easy peasey! have you ever tried to remove a woven bird net off a full grown plum tree after it has grown through the mesh? Messy! Attachments:
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