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Post by johninfla on Mar 9, 2012 7:57:15 GMT -5
For the last four years I have tried to bud my apple trees (to seedlings and each other) due to my complete clumsiness I have never had success. BUT NOW ALL THAT HAS CHANGED!!!! One of my buds sprouted!!! I won't tell you what the scion was (cuz it might have been patented  ) however the rootstock was a seedling my daughter started from a Fuji apple. I now have dreams of enlarging my orchard for free. I think that my success this time was mostly due to my using parafilm instead of the narrow green tape. Maybe the fact that I used a brand new razor blade instead of my pocket knife helped too. Anyway, I cut off the rootstock above the graft and am now hoping to have a new apple tree by the end of summer!!!! If anyone else is like I was and disillusioned by their lack of success I would suggest two things.... (1) keep on trying, and (2) find someone to show you how to do it....I did it from reading books but I really think that hands on teaching would have helped! John |
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Post by khoomeizhi on Mar 9, 2012 8:14:34 GMT -5
it definitely seemed magical and difficult for a while, but once your hands are in it for a while, it's not too bad. we did whip-and-tongue grafts on about 40 baby trees last year and had about an 85% rate of success. not too bad. more budding this year.
hoping the bud grafts of the awesome american persimmon i found last fall will take too...too early to tell.
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Post by Hristo on Mar 9, 2012 12:03:45 GMT -5
What type of budding you use - T or Chip? Personally I find the chip budding much easier and better than T-budding. And for all those who want to learn how to graft forget the books, youtube is all you need. Indeed most of the videos are actually useless, but there are some really well made.
I found the hard way that the knife is really important. When it's thin and razor sharp, i.e. can shave, the results are much better.
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Post by canadamike on Mar 9, 2012 12:11:04 GMT -5
I have used a very fine sculptor's knife before, with an extra thin blade, but now I use exactos, and I love it...
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Post by johninfla on Mar 9, 2012 12:33:29 GMT -5
What type of budding you use - T or Chip? Personally I find the chip budding much easier and better than T-budding. I used t-budding. Now that I am an expert  I'll have to branch out and try chipping. My thinking in using t-budding was that getting the bud under the bark would protect it more, but looking at the way my graft turned out, it seems that much of the bud came out from under anyway! |
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Post by johninfla on Mar 9, 2012 12:34:42 GMT -5
I have used a very fine sculptor's knife before, with an extra thin blade, but now I use exactos, and I love it... When next payday comes, I'll have to go pick up an xacto! |
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Post by Hristo on Mar 9, 2012 13:23:59 GMT -5
I have not used it, but many people use utility knifes and report good results. Chip-budding and rind grafting are very easy and effective and cover most needs, so I recommend them to any beginner (not that I'm an expert  , but they work very well for me). |
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Post by Walk on Mar 9, 2012 16:57:08 GMT -5
We haven't tried bud grafts yet. But we have had success with a couple of hundred whip/splice grafts on seedling or stooled rootstocks over the years. We've never had the right materials but have used rubber band (1/4" wide like the kind the post office uses cut open to make a strip), 2" wide masking tape to cover the wrap, and ordinary candle wax to seal the cut end at the tip of the scion. Despite the improvised stuff, nature works anyway, at least 80% to 90%+ of the time.
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Post by khoomeizhi on Mar 9, 2012 20:02:05 GMT -5
What type of budding you use - T or Chip? Personally I find the chip budding much easier and better than T-budding. i generally prefer chip budding too, also partial to a modified side graft when the occasion presents itself. |
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Post by Deleted on Apr 7, 2012 20:09:05 GMT -5
Did I hear correctly, that a single graft can change the color of fruit, on the whole tree?
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Post by steev on Apr 8, 2012 22:59:05 GMT -5
Yes, provided you amputate the stock, leaving only the graft to grow.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 9, 2012 19:59:43 GMT -5
This seems more logical to me. Either someone misspoke, or I didn't hear it right, the first time. Thanks for your input.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 9, 2012 20:04:21 GMT -5
Would prunus hybrids most likely result from cross-pollination or chimerism? It was suggested, here, that two apple seeds might be partially squished together. But, how are popular crosses usually produced, such as a plumcot or apriplum?
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Post by Hristo on Apr 10, 2012 3:49:19 GMT -5
Prunus hybrids are sexually produced. Apricot x Prunus salicina (and reverse) seems relatively easy cross. Same is true for Prunus salicina x Prunus cerasifera. Unfortunately Prunus domestica does not cross easily with them.
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) however the rootstock was a seedling my daughter started from a Fuji apple. 
I'll have to branch out and try chipping. My thinking in using t-budding was that getting the bud under the bark would protect it more, but looking at the way my graft turned out, it seems that much of the bud came out from under anyway!
, but they work very well for me).
