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Post by oxbowfarm on Jan 14, 2013 4:31:42 GMT -5
As with many foods, there seems to be more ways to eat them the more you look. My mother-in-law has told me that when she was a kid in the Azores the typical way for most of the favas to be eaten was parched. Men would take handfuls of them in their pockets as trail food as they went out to the fields from the village. No idea as to the variety or method of parching them.
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Post by johninfla on Jan 14, 2013 10:22:16 GMT -5
Hi Holly, It's not your beans that's the problem....it's our crazy weather! Frost in mid November, frost in mid and late December and 80 degrees this week! I've got some that are still alive....I'm hoping maybe they will be the most cold tolerant and produce cold tolerant seed?  ?? Thanks for the seeds and fabric!!! Patty says Hi. John |
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Post by steev on Jan 14, 2013 11:34:58 GMT -5
Parched favas are a common snack in Guatemala.
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Post by mayz on Jan 16, 2013 5:16:22 GMT -5
Thermometer says -9°C this morning (16°F). Fortunately my favas are protected by 2 inches of snow. No thaw until next week...
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Post by steev on Jan 21, 2013 11:34:13 GMT -5
Temps on the farm dropped to 24F this week; the favas are still fine. Garbanzos planted the same day are sprouting.
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Post by ottawagardener on Jan 21, 2013 17:41:05 GMT -5
Very interesting.
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Post by steev on Jan 22, 2013 0:44:39 GMT -5
What's interesting?
My favas, garbanzos, and lentils are growing, though very slowly.
Conventional wisdom is that stuff doesn't grow much when max/min temps don't add up to 100; on the farm, current temps add up to 90/95.
That's enough to prompt peaches and almonds to bloom (yes, they're starting to do that), which is why I mostly don't get any of them, the blossums getting cold-killed. Grump.
I don't get apricots, either, which really pisses me off. I'm working on it.
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Post by richardw on Jan 22, 2013 3:50:15 GMT -5
That sounds like me too,may get apricots once every 5 years
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Post by mayz on Jan 28, 2013 2:47:32 GMT -5
After ten days of frost and snow, thaw is there and my favas are still alive. Lowest temperature since emergence: -9°C.
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Post by mayz on Feb 4, 2013 8:56:18 GMT -5
light frost damages on my favas Attachments:
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Post by richardw on Feb 4, 2013 11:58:34 GMT -5
Are there some plants that haven't got any damage after those ten days of frost and snow mayz
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Post by YoungAllotmenteer on Feb 4, 2013 14:07:27 GMT -5
What's interesting? My favas, garbanzos, and lentils are growing, though very slowly. Conventional wisdom is that stuff doesn't grow much when max/min temps don't add up to 100; on the farm, current temps add up to 90/95. That's enough to prompt peaches and almonds to bloom (yes, they're starting to do that), which is why I mostly don't get any of them, the blossums getting cold-killed. Grump. I don't get apricots, either, which really pisses me off. I'm working on it. Steev, I have no idea of your situation, but one of the things they do commercially to help prevent frost damage (commercial citrus plantations around the world do this) is set up sprinklers with ambient water to prevent frost. Its not quite as simple as that, but worth looking into. |
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Post by blueadzuki on Feb 4, 2013 15:58:55 GMT -5
Hi all,
I am currently beginning the process of starting some of the very early spring crops inside (to give them a head start to compensate for the relatively short time we usually have cool weather here). So far I have been mostly doing little diddling experiments (things I've picked out of other thins which are of academic interest, but no real food value) and am itching to begin starting at least SOME of the actual veggies. I know I can't do the peas or the grasspeas now (for the reason below) but I was wondering about the favas. Before I start, however, I have one quick question, which does not seem to be mentioned in most of the growing things. Are favas usually bush type plants (that is, upright and needing no climbing substrate) or climbers. If they are bush I'm probably alright, since I can just pot them bigger as needed until planting time. If on the other hand, they are going to be climbers, I probably should wait, as I never have good luck getting vines to transfer easily (they tend to need a climbing surface long before I can take them out, and by the time I can they are wedded to the support stick and I lose out on being able to use our railings and trellises to take over and cut down on the amount of space I need. And tearing a vine off it's support to twine it onto another is risky (I've killed a lot of vines that way)
I'm starting small, with about 6 seeds (tiny garden, lots of things to grow) which I have reason to think are 50% bell marrone in DNA, and 50% some other fava ( the bag I pulled them out of were most likey bell marrones but the 6 I seperated out 1. are a bit too big to be pure marrones (they're smaller than "normal" favas but still bigger than the bells and 2. have some very un bell like characteristics (like seed coats that are quite rough and bumpy, as opposed to bells smooth one). So info about them in particual is especially useful. Thanks in advance!
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Post by YoungAllotmenteer on Feb 4, 2013 16:13:43 GMT -5
They are not strictly a bush, more an erect stem. Each plant would typically have 3 stems.
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Post by blueadzuki on Feb 4, 2013 16:56:05 GMT -5
They are not strictly a bush, more an erect stem. Each plant would typically have 3 stems. But they do not climb? |
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