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Post by littleminnie on Jun 1, 2015 20:19:29 GMT -5
I have been using this little cultivator to farm almost an acre and it is killing me. I had been holding off buying a tiller because I wanted a tractor at some point but now I decided it is time to just get the tiller already. I am looking on Craig;s List. Any suggestions as to what I should get? Be specific.
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Post by longhorngardens on Jun 1, 2015 20:39:58 GMT -5
My dream is that one day I will be working with a BCS 853. It is so nice.
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Post by longhorngardens on Jun 1, 2015 20:40:54 GMT -5
Oh and check out those attachments.
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Post by jondear on Jun 1, 2015 20:57:11 GMT -5
The BCS is a nice rig. One of my uncles has one. The only problem I see with it is that is has so many levers on it, I think it would be a pain to operate.
For a decent walk behind rear tined tiller, Troybilt Horse with the bigger engines are nice in my experience. The Pony's are too small for a lot of things, but the one I use is handy after the crops gets too big to use the Horse. My friends dad put a Honda engine on his Horse, and he says it's the bees knees.
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Post by steev on Jun 1, 2015 21:01:27 GMT -5
Minnie: while I agree with the BCS, I would caution you to get one with brakes, as they are heavy and brakes make turning easier; further, I think the "rental" tines are a good investment for longer service. Granted, they have lots of levers/controls, but it isn't that steep a learning curve (hell, I did it).
I used Troybilt for ~30 years, but I no longer am as confident of their quality. I think BCS is going to serve me 'til I drop (hey, guys, send me a free attachment, 'kay?).
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Post by oxbowfarm on Jun 2, 2015 0:50:45 GMT -5
I have a BCS 732. I like the BCS, but they are very expensive. Troybilt is made by MTD now, so it is hard to see why not just buy an MTD, they are usually cheaper for the same machine with a different badge on it.
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Post by steev on Jun 2, 2015 1:27:25 GMT -5
BCS 732; me, too; someday when I'm flush, I'll get a larger, diesel model with brakes; wish they still made their trencher attachment.
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Post by RpR on Jun 2, 2015 13:38:10 GMT -5
I had a front-tine Simplicity that was the best tiller I ever ran, anywhere, and I have run quite a few.
Sadly its features that make it so great, mean that when the engine wears out, it is only good for parts.
If you buy used look for simplicity but make sure it has a reverse gear.
As far as rear-tine go, I have never found one I liked and I have used about one-half dozen by borrowing or rental.
I bought one once and sold it the next year for a good front-tine.
In your sandy soil though, they will probably work better but make sure that you can either man-handle it or back it out if it gets bogged down, which is the main problem I had with them.
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Post by littleminnie on Jun 2, 2015 20:39:24 GMT -5
I always thought the rear tine were preferred. If anyone wants to indulge me look at the Craig's list list. tillers near meI am not sure if I am looking for a good strong but controllable tiller or a small tractor with tiller in back. My beds now are 3.5 feet wide but I could make the paths smaller, all clover instead of most of them plastic, and it would work. I think the 4 foot plastic and the 4 foot tiller tractors work together. And we are still looking to move to a house with land and start out there. We looked at a new house tonight with a weird back yard. We still haven't found anything right. |
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Post by steev on Jun 2, 2015 20:59:43 GMT -5
Unless your soil is totally worked and friable, front-tine is a bitch.
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Post by jondear on Jun 2, 2015 22:11:29 GMT -5
I looked at the list. I can tell you I borrowed a craftsman rear tine once. Hated it. It felt like it could tip over at any time.
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Post by RpR on Jun 3, 2015 11:31:41 GMT -5
I always thought the rear tine were preferred. If anyone wants to indulge me look at the Craig's list list. tillers near meI am not sure if I am looking for a good strong but controllable tiller or a small tractor with tiller in back. My beds now are 3.5 feet wide but I could make the paths smaller, all clover instead of most of them plastic, and it would work. I think the 4 foot plastic and the 4 foot tiller tractors work together. And we are still looking to move to a house with land and start out there. We looked at a new house tonight with a weird back yard. We still haven't found anything right. If you get a rear-tine, make sure the handle bars are comfortable for you. I never found one where the handle bars were not too low, and that can get real miserable. The adds, where you see them running one with one hand, is a farce. You can do that AFTER you have broken the garden up real well and just want to do a quick redo, or have very soft, fluffy, soil. For you a small tractor would probably be best as you could do it in just one pass but always take into account the space it takes to turn the tiller around. When I used rear-tine that meant either a big circle or having to do the equivalent of parallel parking - back and forth, back and forth to turn it around. (Although often I just did a pirouette on the tines but that was a LOT of work.) Up here by Sauk Rapids, I am using a very, very old genuine Roto-Tiller that I put a new Honda engine on. The soil is loose enough that a 12 year old child could do it with no problems but with even the biggest front-tine, and this is small, it takes a lot of passes to get a garden done. I do not think a front-time is much over two and one-half feet even with tine extensions. I never use the depth setting tool that comes with front-tine as it just gets in the way when turning around. That John Deere in the adds, is the type of front-tine that is best. It has reverse, large diameter wheels and only minimal deck over the tines. He wants way too much for it, but it has collector value and you can still get parts. BCS is probably the best for rear-tine; again, you can easily get parts. |
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Post by DarJones on Jun 3, 2015 13:22:12 GMT -5
IMO, the advice given above about front vs rear tine is incomplete. A front tine tiller is best for cultivation between rows. A rear tine is best for preparing soil to plant and for heavy duty cultivation. Rear tine tillers are a pita if you are using them to cultivate on a slope but on level ground are perfectly usable. Do NOT get a cheap rear tine tiller. I've had 3 Craftsman rear tine tillers and have used another dozen or so. They are inadequate for the job when growing as much as you are. Don't buy the recent troybilt bronco etc tillers, they are no better than the average craftsman or similar. So what is the best tiller? Troybilt horse made between 1985 and 1998 are excellent. Tillsmith which was last made in 1966 are excellent front tine tillers but very hard to find. Be careful, Tillsmith made some very good tillers and some that were cheapos. I recommend 24 inch wide tillers because they work very well with 36 inch wide rows. minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/grd/5054495667.html This Troybilt Horse Electric at $800 is moderately over priced. It is a very good tiller that would last you about 15 years depending on how hard you use it. The motor will have to be replaced after about 5 years of hard use. IMO, this would be a decent deal at $700 but a bit high at $800. You might call and ask. Key items: Troybilt Horse, Kohler engine, made 1985 to 1995, appears to be in good condition, may need new tines. Try to get him down to $600 and work your way up to $700 if needed. Be prepared to replace the belt $15 and reversing disk $20 soon after you get it. minneapolis.craigslist.org/ank/grd/5053095063.html This front tine tiller would be a decent deal for the price. If you want one to use right away, it should be good for about 3 or 4 years heavy use. It is not a high quality tiller, but is not a cheapo either. Try for $140 to $150. minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/grd/5036079070.html This one is a long shot. It would be worth calling and asking what kind of tiller and perhaps going to look. This is an example of a Tillsmith front tine tiller, but is in very poor condition. It is missing the tine cover and the motor has been trashed. www.ebay.com/itm/161720273906 The key differentiator with Tillsmith tillers is that they used a cast iron gear box that will last for generations. I purchased a $185 new motor for mine 2 years ago after using it for the last 10 years. I am using it daily in my garden. It is very good for a heavily used 50 year old tiller! |
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Post by littleminnie on Jun 3, 2015 18:14:26 GMT -5
Thanks all! I don't have to worry about handles to low. I am 5'2. So things can get tough for me. I borrowed a friends tiller 2 years ago and almost did this year. It runs itself. She uses it with flip flops on and just walks behind. I will ask him what kind it is.
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Post by littleminnie on Jun 4, 2015 22:46:19 GMT -5
I talked to the owner of the 86 Troybilt about seeing it but hub says he will not buy a 20 year old tiller for $700.  |
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