|
|
Post by keen101 (Biolumo / Andrew B.) on Feb 27, 2016 13:00:05 GMT -5
What is the best soil to start tomatoes from seed? I know sometimes poor potting soil has a tendency to introduce damping off or spontaneous seedling death. So what is the best for tomatoes to insure the best survival? I've heard peat moss is best. Is this true? what are all your experiences.
|
|
|
|
Post by philagardener on Feb 27, 2016 15:09:37 GMT -5
I currently use a commercial milled peat/vermiculite seed starting mix and also have used expandable peat pellets (Jiffy-7s) in the past with great success.
To control diseases, a little airflow from a fan also help provide a bit of mechanical stimulation for stockier seedlings. I also water exclusively from the bottom and think that is the most important.
Hardening off when I transition them outdoors can be the trickiest part of the whole process, and also a cold, wet Spring can cause my seedlings to become tall and floppy before I can get them in the ground. Those parts just require a fair bit of attention to go smoothly.
|
|
|
|
Post by paquebot on Feb 27, 2016 22:41:09 GMT -5
Been making my own for almost 15 years. It's about 75% milled peat and 25% vermiculite. Don't go with more peat than that as peat will hold too much water even when only watered from below. In fact, doesn't hurt if the medium dries at the surface since the roots are far below within a day or two after emergence.
Martin
|
|
|
|
Post by Joseph Lofthouse on Feb 27, 2016 22:41:49 GMT -5
I really like coconut coir for transplants.
Hardening off became trivial for me, once I realized that I could prevent sunburn with a layer of 6 mil plastic. So I just set the plants out under an open-sided plastic canopy. In about 4 days they are hardened off and ready for planting.
|
|
|
|
Post by richardw on Feb 27, 2016 23:16:39 GMT -5
I never seem to have many problems with a 50/50 soil/compost mix
|
|
|
|
Post by reed on Feb 28, 2016 5:30:49 GMT -5
I use mostly just compost and soil out of the garden. I start in an unheated cold frame in medium sized pots and pull the transplants. It works much better for me than those little cell packs cause I don't have to be as attentive to watering. They don't really need hardened off cause the lid is open any time temps are high enough anyway. Damping off usually isn't much of a problem, I don't want the ones that are prone to it anyway so it's OK if some croak.
Only problem is I don't have a product that competes visually with the mass produced ones to sell as plants. Even though mine will usually catch up and pass them if planted side by side.
|
|
|
|
Post by paquebot on Feb 28, 2016 12:18:23 GMT -5
A potential problem with using untreated garden soil is that it contains millions of microbes which may or may not be friendly to a weak seedling. Before sterile mediums were common, soil was used but it was baked for a certain length of time to make it sterile. Trust me, it stinks!
Martin
|
|
|
|
Post by steev on Feb 28, 2016 20:58:20 GMT -5
A crock-pot on the porch is the way to go.
|
|
|
|
Post by keen101 (Biolumo / Andrew B.) on Mar 2, 2016 14:56:40 GMT -5
|
|
dave
gopher
Posts: 18 
|
Post by dave on Mar 2, 2016 19:58:15 GMT -5
I have used, for several years, a mix of 2/3 coconut coir and 1/3 vermiculite. For plants that will be held in the pots longer, like tomatoes, peppers, and brassicas, I add one measure of fresh worm castings. The worm castings must be quite biologically active since I occasionally get a small worm also. Have never had dampening-off disease. I do keep a fan running at all times, which I think helps a lot.
|
|
