Hmm looking at this list Earl shared from Tatiana's tomatobase I am reminded that there is a tomato specialist who sells starts at one of the Farmers markets in Missoula Montana. Pretty sure I bought a Amurskiy Tiger from in 2016. I liked the plant and planned to save some seeds but lost the wooden name tag to decomposition and then stuck a couple of the tomatoes in a "survived the 2016 garden large tomato mix" which was mostly Bison and Ararat Flame. Amurskiy Tiger is 60 DTM according to Tatiana's tomatobase and would be a good source of short season stripes for a colorful short DTM breeding project.
Post by farmermike on Feb 24, 2017 17:24:40 GMT -5
I am planning to make some crosses this summer between extra early determinate tomatoes, and highly-flavorful diversely-colored indeterminate tomatoes. Some of the determinate mothers will be Forest Fire, Silvery Fir Tree, (and a few others I received in trades), and the indeterminate pollen-donors might be, Berkeley Tie-Dye, Lucid Gem, Ananas Noire, Cherokee Purple, Striped Roman. I am assuming that the DTM of the progeny from these crosses will be somewhere in between the parents, and that in subsequent generations they will segregate for a higher percentage of indeterminate (vs. determinate) because that is the dominant trait.
My plan is to just look for the most determinate offspring starting with the F2, and continue with those lines until I have colorful extra early tomatoes.
I have never tried manually crossing tomatoes before, so I guess I need to learn how to do that. I suppose I will also have to start a later crop of the early mothers, so that their flowering and fruit set coincides with the later pollen-donors.
SF Bay Area, Contra Costa County -- Inner Coast Ranges, former Oak Savanna. Hot, dry summers; cool, wet winters. ~240 frost free days. Last/first frost: Mar.15/Nov.15. Avg. annual precip: 17"(432mm).
Post by Joseph Lofthouse on Feb 24, 2017 19:20:22 GMT -5
One error I made with my first manual crosses was using the determinate short-season plants as pollen donors. So the manually-pollinated fruits on the later longer-season plants didn't mature.
Because determinate growth habit is a recessive trait, it's easy to select for. (About 25% of the F2 generation will be determinate.) Once a determinate plant is discovered, then it's offspring remain determinate unless they get cross-pollinated.
I have generally culled the earliest plant to produce fruits from the F2 of a cross, because they tend to produce the smallest fruits. It's the plants that mature about a week later that have been most interesting to me.
Silt/clay, high-altitude, super-arid, sun-drenched, irrigated-desert garden. Cold radiant-cooled nights. ~100 frost free days. Grow most of my own locally adapted landrace seed. GDD10C ~1300. Author of Mother Earth News: Landrace Gardening Blog.
Post by keen101 (Biolumo / Andrew B.) on Feb 26, 2017 17:04:23 GMT -5
Sounds like a great project!
I think someone brought it up before, but one thing i see happening with this is that in general the smaller tomatoes are the earliest. So are your goals to have any early tomatoes regardless if they are cherry size, grape size, currant size, etc. Or is there going to be a optimal tomato size your shooting for. I think in general Joseph say's for his climate he generally can't grow many over Saldette size, which is kindof a mid-size tomato. Since i'm in a similar climate i generally think the same is true. I have gotten a few large tomatoes from time to time, but not only were they long season, i generally only get one tomato off those kind of plants the whole season. A big tomato is great, but to only get one tomato from it the whole season seems a bit "too heirloomy" and pathetic in my opinion. If i had to settle for Saldette size that might be a good compromise between size and production (maybe aka. earliness).
Post by Joseph Lofthouse on Feb 26, 2017 23:03:37 GMT -5
Here's what an F3 sibling group looked like. These are YTD harvest from all plants. That largest orange tomato is about the size and color of the mother of the cross. The 5th row from the right is about like the pollen donor of the cross. I figure that the smallest fruits were from plants where the two genomes didn't combine well together, (they are late, small fruited, and not very productive). My target is about like the row all the way to the left.
My definition of saladette is about 2 to 3 ounces. The maximum size I can expect from my garden is about 12 ounces.
Here's what the YTD harvest looked like even later in the season.
Got a packet of Blue Ambrosia as well. Should be a good source of blue and yellow for short season crosses without outcrossing to longer season blues. Also got Lee's dwarf hirsutum cross and I-3 to try.