I am trying to plan to space out some plantings and would like advice as I am not so bright at this ; I like zucchini and small pumpkins, spaghetti squash and have intent to grow some red kobuchi squash to try it and styrian pumpkins for seed . Dang to complicate it I would like to grow cucumbers too , will they cross pollinate with zucchini ?
I would like some tasty squash that keeps in winter and is not too big nor hard to cut if anyone has suggestions as well ?
Also I was planning to plant some squash in my orchard that gets south sun, could I add wheelbarrows of goat manure and spent hay now and plant squash starts in that in say 3 months ?
Last Edit: Jan 18, 2021 14:04:56 GMT -5 by synergy
Divide by species. C. Pepo, C. Maxima, C. Moschata, and C. Mixta cover just about everything we normally grow. Zucchini, crookneck, and styrian are all C. Pepo and will readily cross. Cucumber does NOT cross with any of the pumpkin family nor does cucumber cross with cantaloupe contrary to what a lot of older gardeners will tell
As a general rule, you can't grow C. Pepo squash varieties within 1/4 mile of another C. Pepo without getting some crossing. Full isolation for commercial seed production requires 2 miles. You can always take the approach of hand pollinating a few flowers for seed.
You can always tie some yarn around both the male and female flowers that you want to use for parents the night before they open. Untie, cross, and re tie the female. I usually just pick the tied male and untie it when I'm at the female and use it like a paint brush to coat the frilly bit in the middle of the female. If had them both tied, the bees won't raid the male's pollen, and the female won't get other pollen besides what you used. Once the bloom fades, you can transfer the yarn to a loose tie around the stem of the pollinated baby fruit. You don't need any isolation distance if you do that....just yarn, grin.
Okay I am going to try to grow some squash or summer eating and some for keeping fall into winter. I am still trying to narrow it down . None of my friends would grow a different variety and trade so we could save seed . They said who cares about saving seed . I am a little concerned if we don't start saving some seed , we will continuously be vulnerable for the basic genetics of our food supply .
If you do not intend to save seed, the kinds of squash or cucumbers you grow & their proximity does not matter. Cross-pollination will not affect the form or flavor of any squash or cucumber grown this year.
If you do intend to save seed: (1) the blossoms which will open the next day must be tied (as illustrated by Jocelyn), bagged, or taped the day before to keep out bees. This applies to both male & female blossoms, at least one of each per variety. Those flowers are opened in the morning, quickly hand pollinated, then the female blossoms re-closed to prevent any further pollination. Place a string, twist-tie or some type of marker around the stem of the pollinated female flower, to identify it for seed saving. (2) to save seed which will be the same as what you grew, the variety must be open pollinated. All "heirlooms" are open pollinated (OP). You can save seeds from hybrids too; but their seed will produce unpredictable results, some of which might be unpalatable. If you have limited space, or don't want to experiment, then you should only save seed from OP varieties. Hybrid seed must be labeled as hybrid, and may have "F1" after the variety name.
If you autofecondated an hybrid AB,you will get of hybrid AA or BB or AB the last generation A x B= AB In my exemple AA and BB are the allele. The squash is diploïd and she have two alleles of twenty chromosome.
keen101 (Biolumo / Andrew B.): Looking for Goldini Zucchini again. Thinking of setting up my own seed shop for OSSI varieties in the future.
Apr 2, 2022 3:58:57 GMT -5
gratefulseedsaver: I have Goldini seeds. email@example.com
Oct 8, 2022 18:46:12 GMT -5
wilscase: Hello all. My name is Casey Wilson. I'
Oct 18, 2022 21:31:32 GMT -5
wilscase: I'm a graduate student at Oregon State and have been working with populations segrgating for different color genes such as the B gene in Cucurbita. I'm curious if anyone has experience with crosses in Cucurbita maxima between grey blue types and orange?
Oct 18, 2022 21:33:14 GMT -5
wilscase: I have been backcrossing to the grey parent for 4 generations and have finally selfed the heterozygotes (for the Bmax gene) the populations have segregated for diffuse bicolor (pink/blue, orange green), blue green, blue, green, pink (salmon) and orange
Oct 18, 2022 21:36:29 GMT -5
wilscase: The genes involved are Bmax and bl. I have observed that Bmax is incompletely dominant to wild type (green). I have read that bl is incompletely recessive to Bl(wild type). I'm curious if anyone else has observed the behavior of Bmax in a grey/blue type
Oct 18, 2022 21:38:28 GMT -5
wilscase: It appears that bl and Bmax are interacting to produce different shades of salmon and pink.
Oct 18, 2022 21:38:52 GMT -5
wilscase: I'm also interested in any other color genetics, especially the relationships between B and L genes. In the right background these genes can dramatically increase Carotenoids (vitamin A)
Oct 18, 2022 21:40:09 GMT -5
wilscase: I have lots of germplasm and would love to exchange anything that people are interested in
Oct 18, 2022 21:41:56 GMT -5