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Post by khoomeizhi on Mar 27, 2013 6:29:39 GMT -5
hristo, i've been using paraffin grafting tape for three years or so. seems like it lasts for most of the first season. has to be stretched to get it to stick xto itself
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Post by Hristo on Mar 27, 2013 9:29:58 GMT -5
Steev, they are quite different.
khoomeizhi, that will be good enough for me. I tested it how well adheres, and it's not as good as Parafilm M, but if it holds long enough that's all I need.
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Post by olddog on Mar 27, 2013 9:59:30 GMT -5
I have used parafilm M for several years now, for grafting apples and pears, and persimmon, and it has worked very well, and not broken apart too early, in the sun.
NOt sure why it is breaking apart so soon in hristo's garden.
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Post by steev on Mar 27, 2013 10:34:12 GMT -5
The only parafilm I've experienced is that used in chem labs.
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Post by MikeH on Mar 27, 2013 15:48:59 GMT -5
I've never used Parafilm M so I can't compare it. I use the grafting tape that I linked to. It lasted all season. You stretch it a bit before you apply it and it sticks very well. The only thing that caused it to break was the expansion of the branch over time as it grew.
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Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Apr 1, 2013 15:49:50 GMT -5
I am using fresh and sticky duct tape, in my first experiments, still holding well after a month. On my first try, I'm liking this, because the width and stiffness of the tightly-drawn tape does a good job at stabilizing the scion. We use this to cover the vents on our roof, and the sun, here, decomposes the glue within a year.
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Post by Drahkk on Apr 14, 2013 16:42:23 GMT -5
The 9 plum scions I grafted to wild rootstock have done nothing. Timing is critical. You need the scion to be dormant and the host to be just breaking dormancy. Besides my inexperience, this was likely part of the issue; the buds were already swollen on the scions, while the rootstock was still completely dormant. But look what I found today! What's this? Growth ABOVE the graft? Hooray! 1 out of 9 is a small victory, but I'll take it. Between that and the three that I just direct rooted (two of which are already showing new growth in addition to leaves) I think I'll have the trees I wanted. MB
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Post by 12540dumont on Apr 14, 2013 17:36:04 GMT -5
Well, all but one of Mr. Prince's Peaches is alive!
D, Hope you are okay and that tornado passed far far away from you.
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Post by Drahkk on Apr 14, 2013 18:21:12 GMT -5
We're fine, but thanks for asking. The one on NBC was in Kemper county, on the other side of the state, near the Alabama line. I'm a couple of miles from the Mississippi river. We just got a lot of rain. All it meant to me was one more weekend where I still can't get my Paradise in the ground, as it's too muddy to run the seeder. Glad to see yours is up and looking healthy.
MB
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Post by mnjrutherford on Apr 15, 2013 13:12:09 GMT -5
Could the tape be dissolving faster for Hristo due to acid rain or a difference in the angle of the sun? I'm no scientist and I've never even heard of the material your talking about, but when I read your entries, that is what popped into my head as possibilities.
I have green growth on 2 of the grape cuttings that I potted on 2/13. They are next to the upside down hazel scions I put down on 3/15. Not seeing the hazels and not being willing to risk checking on them is making me a little bit crazy. I'm worried that I put in enough soil, I'm worried that the single watering is not enough... I'M WORRIED!!! GAHHHH
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Post by raymondo on Apr 15, 2013 15:48:41 GMT -5
Isn't the purpose of storing upside down to get early/quick callusing? If that's the case then I wouldn't be waiting until I see green shoots on the hazels. I'd simply check the scions and if there is callusing around the base (top when they're upside down) I'd put them the right way up to encourage root growth in the right direction. At the very least I'd lay them horizontal.
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Post by mnjrutherford on Apr 15, 2013 21:02:25 GMT -5
I really have no clue Ray. I'm following the example of the video on page one of this thread. I'm totally clueless about the how and why of the method. What I DO know is that propagating hazels has a very low success rate. Take a look at the video (it's only about 15 minutes long) and tell me what you think. I would LOVE to hear your thoughts!
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Post by raymondo on Apr 15, 2013 21:33:07 GMT -5
Well.... To begin with, they are already buried in the bucket, so I'm kinda committed to that method at present. As for grafting, well... I suck mightly. I tried it and the results were 100% death. Got LOADS of pear root stock though!!!! I DO need to try again, but I'm not ready to commit the precious hazels to that process. At around the 6:15 mark he says that he takes out the cuttings when they bases have callused (there may even be some roots he says) and turns them right way up. If you leave them too long Jo and they start to root while they are upside down, the roots will be growing the wring way when you turn them right way way up. He doesn't explain why he puts them upside down to start with but others have said that it's because the ends will be warmer at the top and will callus more quickly. Callusing, by the way, is when the end begins to look warty and rough. This is where roots will emerge. Yes, I have heard that hazels are difficult to get going from cuttings. Layering is apparently more effective, if you already have a bush growing, or splitting off a sucker from the base with some roots attached, should the opportunity present itself. I'll be trying root cuttings towards the end of winter as I've promised a friend a few hazels. Someone gave me several different varieties which I have in pots at the moment.
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Post by mnjrutherford on Apr 17, 2013 18:08:35 GMT -5
ok... So it's been 33 days. I'll check them tomorrow morning. If they are indeed calloused and starting to root, what should I do? Bucket them or plant in place?
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Post by mnjrutherford on Apr 18, 2013 11:57:20 GMT -5
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