|
Post by steev on Jan 18, 2017 23:08:04 GMT -5
Were I "sticking it to the man", I'd prefer Pacaya, an interesting vegetable; easier to "introduce", given its shape.
|
|
|
Post by nicollas on Jan 21, 2017 14:21:25 GMT -5
|
|
|
Post by keen101 (Biolumo / Andrew B.) on Jan 23, 2017 23:15:48 GMT -5
I received my seed for a few wild tomatoes from Alan Kapuler from Peace Seeds today. While doing a quick google search this evening about "occasionally outcrossing tomatoes" i ran across this neat little paper. What caught my eye was this second paper unexpectedly also mentioning the variety 'Magnus' as being somewhat of a high outcrossing variety. The first paper i found it mentioned in (i think i mentioned it in this thread last year) i got it because it was mentioned as being the one with the most exerted stigmas. So now i'm even more excited to grow magnus. Last year it was one of the fastest and most vigerous growers in the seedling stage and is the first potato leaved tomato i've ever grown before. Here is this new paper i found with all the cool interesting info pasted below: libraries.uark.edu/aas/issues/1973v27/v27a8.pdf
|
|
|
Post by keen101 (Biolumo / Andrew B.) on Jan 23, 2017 23:45:53 GMT -5
I have two questions.
1.are exerted stigmas dominant or recessive?
2.are peeling anthers dominant or recessive?
If i'm going to start diving into some of my own crosses i need to know which promiscuous traits are easily identified in the F1 (dominant) and which ones are only recoverable in the F2 (recessive).
|
|
|
Post by nicollas on Jan 24, 2017 3:17:23 GMT -5
If you look to the doc i've given, it seems that the relevant morphological caracteristics are under several genes (QTL)
|
|
|
Post by nicollas on Jan 24, 2017 3:25:43 GMT -5
This should interest you guys :
|
|
|
Post by reed on Jan 24, 2017 6:33:56 GMT -5
"Alexander et al. (1971) noted that "in this area (Wooster, Ohio), most if not all tomato flowers are pollinated by bumblebees."
That's interesting, also here in various places on the forum I'v seen mention of bumblebees pollinating tomatoes but I do not see that in my garden in SE Indiana. I have seen bumblebees on tomatoes but only very late in the season when a lot of other flowers are gone and frost is imminent, way too late for any fruit to develop. Earlier in the season the bumblebees completely ignore tomatoes in favor of other things. Honey bees visit rarely but still more often than bumblebees.
I paid close attention this year and observed that several types of small sweat bees similar to the halictid bee mentioned above were common on the tomatoes. Crossing I suspect is high especially on flowers even slightly configured for it but not by bumblebees.
|
|
|
Post by Joseph Lofthouse on Jan 24, 2017 12:55:10 GMT -5
The exerted stigma trait seems more like a QTL: In my crosses between domestic tomatoes and S. habrochaites, the styles are exerted, but not as much as in S. habrochaites. So partially dominant. I haven't measured if the effect is due to styles being longer, or anthers being shorter, or some combination, etc.
I haven't recovered the "non-connected" anthers trait that I was looking for in one of my crosses. I only planted about 32 F2 plants.
Huge petals seems to be a dominant trait. (Stabilizing dominant traits sucks!)
The beefsteak type flower trait seems to be recessive.
|
|
|
Post by Joseph Lofthouse on Feb 6, 2017 18:43:43 GMT -5
Here's what some of the tomato flowers looked like today. These are F1 plants of a cross between Fern, my earliest red slicing tomato, and LA1777, solanum habrochaites. In other news, I have an F2 plant from the panamorous tomato project that is just forming flower buds, so it looks like there is plenty of time for it to make seeds before I want to be starting the spring tomatoes.
|
|
|
Post by keen101 (Biolumo / Andrew B.) on Feb 6, 2017 18:58:19 GMT -5
WOW! Keep up the good work!
a related question... domestic tomatoes are recommended to be started 6 weeks before planting out, i think. In your experience when should one start wild tomato species? From my feeble attempt last year the wild seedlings seemed to grow much slower than domestic, so if that has also been your experience i assume it would be good to start them earlier?
I've been having great success with my new LED grow lights these past few weeks during winter, and my experimental tomato seedlings are doing very well and the leaves are not yellow this time and are dark green. (http://www.banggood.com/100W-1131-Red-234-Blue-LED-Grow-Light-Plant-Lamp-Garden-Greenhouse-Plant-Seedling-Light-p-1020547.html) So I feel confident in trying my hand at all those tomato seedlings again this year.
|
|
|
Post by Joseph Lofthouse on Feb 6, 2017 21:45:03 GMT -5
Keen101: The wild tomatoes can be slow to germinate, and they start out small, so adding a couple extra weeks seems fine. I didn't record dates when I planted these. They are more or less the same age, about 2 weeks. From left to right: 25%:75% Domestic:habrochaites, S. habrochaites, S. peruvianum. Perhaps I'll start a side-by-side test. And since I had my camera in the grow box, one of the F2 plants of a cross between domestic tomatoes and S. habrochaites is getting ready to flower. It's been 7 weeks since I planted the seeds. Growing conditions are 82F day and night with 12 hours of fluorescent light per day. Looks like there is plenty of time to grow one more generation of seed before spring. F2: [2.5" red X LA1777]
|
|
|
Post by keen101 (Biolumo / Andrew B.) on Feb 7, 2017 1:48:49 GMT -5
ok. thanks! That's what i was kindof thinking already. p.s. i found this gem of a photo today! (source: www.irbtomato.org) I will try to grow out some S. galapagense this year. I will try and see if the flowers are as noticeable as the ones in this image. S. huaylasense and S. corneliomulleri look interesting.
|
|
|
Post by ferdzy on Feb 7, 2017 9:59:55 GMT -5
keen101 (Biolumo / Andrew B.), there's a stray bracket at the end of your link so it doesn't work. And I have to laugh; what struck me when I got through to the site is they are using those little nylon organza party-favour bags from the dollar store that I also use to keep flowers from crossing with something unwanted; so handy. And yes, that's a great picture. I've never heard of half those things. Are they all edible? ("edible"?)
|
|
|
Post by Joseph Lofthouse on Feb 11, 2017 23:29:37 GMT -5
Today I received one of my two seed purchases for the year. It was wild tomatoes from Peace Seeds.
Solanum peruvianum Solanum habrochaites, v typicum
Solanum lycopersicum, Golden Tressette Tomato A beautiful indeterminate original cultivar with clusters of orange cherry sized fruits of unique and excellent flavor. The flowering clusters generally have 20-40 fruits per tress. This new cultivar has both Solanum pimpinellifolium and Solanum chilense in its ancestry.
The other purchase contains cactus seeds and Solanum chilense from Sacred Succulents.
|
|
|
Post by Joseph Lofthouse on Feb 12, 2017 0:44:25 GMT -5
Last year I had zero jermination on about 8 accessions each of S. galapagense and S. cheesmanii. Tonight I pooled the remaining seed from each species, and planted them into a single pot for each species. I figure that way, if nothing jerminates that at least it's not taking up so much room.
I also changed the configuration of the jermination chamber to be about 83F/65F day/night.
|
|