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Post by richardw on Jun 22, 2018 0:40:55 GMT -5
Fern leaved tomato sounds interesting
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Post by Joseph Lofthouse on Aug 14, 2018 0:53:56 GMT -5
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Post by richardw on Sept 14, 2018 14:13:09 GMT -5
Is it normal time for you to start getting frosts
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Post by mskrieger on Dec 19, 2018 15:08:04 GMT -5
Interesting research. I recall reading in a Jared Diamond book that Montana would be unable to sustain its current human population using only its own resources; your area in specific sounds like it'd do alright, though. Do you intend on testing some of the dry gardening techniques?
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Post by mskrieger on Dec 19, 2018 15:11:10 GMT -5
Also, I think your general lack of summer heat (am I remembering that right?) may make dry gardening doable in your area; I know that if my place only got 16 inches of rain a year, we'd be cooked.
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Post by mskrieger on Dec 19, 2018 17:29:59 GMT -5
It was in Diamond's book "Collapse". The section on Montana is extensive, and not easy to condense. I found it excerpted here: erenow.net/common/collapsejareddiamond/2.phpBeen a long time since I read the whole thing, but I found it worthwhile. I would not be surprised if a different type of society than the one Diamond contemplates could do well in Montana; but he argues that our society, the one that exists currently, could not exist without extensive inputs from the rest of the world and will quickly fail should the incentives for a global economy and cheap shipping breakdown.
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Post by diane on Dec 19, 2018 17:44:32 GMT -5
Does any of your rain fall in the summer?
Steve Solomon has written a fair bit on dry-farming. The closest to hand of his books is Water-Wise Vegetables. Sketches of roots that do well - carrot, beet, kohlrabi are 8 and 9 feet deep, but tomatoes and peppers only go to 4 feet.
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Post by keen101 (Biolumo / Andrew B.) on Dec 22, 2018 12:04:17 GMT -5
I forgot one other tomato thing. Recently read Carol Deppe's book Tao of Gardening. Inspired to add more late blight genetics to tomato patch. Want a packet of some highly late blight resistant hybrid tomato to dehybridize. Probably would also want to cross it with something yellow and shorter season like Blue Ambrosia. Problem with breeding for late blight resistance here is I don't yet have a late blight problem. Though that is also an opportunity. Carol thinks we will have bad multi breeding strain late blight soon. So now is the time to work on it. Though there are folks here who have the stuff now. Also the wild material might be a plenty potent enough source of late blight resistance that fiddling with the F1 hybrid late blight resistant material available is silly but I don't know for sure because I don't have late blight. So belt and suspenders. It is really annoying that all available late blight hybrids seem to be pretty long season. The second pennellii F1 hybrid strain I sent you (I think only 1 seed!), said it had some resistance. LA4488 F1 S. lycopersicum NC 84173 × S. pennellii LA0716. A rootstock hybrid with ToMV resistance.
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Post by diane on Dec 22, 2018 12:19:47 GMT -5
These are the seeds I have of varieties that are late blight resistant. I don't know which resistance they have.
Geranium Kiss Legend Bolivianische Obsttomate Chernomor, Reg Lf IPK LYC 859 El Salvador Little Julia Matt's Wild Cherry Sky Reacher Skykomish
You're welcome to some.
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Post by steve1 on Dec 23, 2018 6:44:19 GMT -5
Hi William, I was reading some late blight material a few years ago, I recall Iron Lady F1 having two genes for late blight resistance (the one in Legend and another). It also has other pathogen resistances. Might be worth a look.
Cheers Steve
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Post by steve1 on Dec 23, 2018 6:47:57 GMT -5
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Post by diane on Dec 23, 2018 12:08:35 GMT -5
I can't find sources for Iron Lady other than High Mowing, and their catalog states:
Must be planted away from other tomatoes to prevent early blight transmission. From our collaboration with Cornell University and North Carolina State University..
Isn't that odd?
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Post by diane on Dec 23, 2018 15:25:59 GMT -5
I just checked my tomato list and have Ambrosia Blue. I hadn't taken a close look at its flowers, but I'll add it to next year's crossing list.
Here on the Pacific coast, I haven't noticed any diseases until late blight which sometimes occurs after a rain. The disease is fussy - it requires not just moisture but a certain temperature range for a particular period of time. Fortunately that doesn't happen often. If we do have a rain in the summer, the temperature is not right.
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Post by diane on Dec 26, 2018 1:32:13 GMT -5
What creatures are you hoping to fence out?
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Post by mskrieger on Dec 27, 2018 16:43:40 GMT -5
Matt's Wild Cherry has become a weed in my garden (just 20 miles north of Long Island, across the sound.) It does ridiculously well here. It also continues to produce into the fall until there's a hard frost, but it doesn't taste good. Needs heat to be sweet. Though when the days are hot, there's nothing better. All my kids graze from it constantly in July, August and September. And it's definitely a candidate for dry gardening, it does fine in the unwatered parts of my garden.
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