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Post by robertb on Nov 26, 2011 15:02:20 GMT -5
You may well be right; does anyone know when the first sugar snap appeared?
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Post by Joseph Lofthouse on Nov 26, 2011 16:03:16 GMT -5
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Post by templeton on Nov 26, 2011 16:07:56 GMT -5
Sugar Snaps, formerly known as Butter Peas have been around since the 19th century. Lamborn's variety is an independent development though. from J. AMER. Soc. HORT. SCI. 117(4):628-632. 1992. Inheritance of Stringless Pod in Pisum sativum L. Rebecca J. McGee1 and James R. Baggett2 "Since 1979, a form of edible pod pea with thick pod walls has become commercially important with the introduction of the cultivar Sugar Snap by C. Lamborn of the Gallatin Valley Seed Co. (Thorndyke, 1983). In this type, formerly called “butter peas,” but currently termed “snap peas,” the recessive gene n conditions thick pod walls and a narrower pod that becomes round in cross section with maturity and tends to be curved (Wehner and Gritton, 1981; Wellensiek, 1925)." The Thorndike paper is"Thorndyke, J. 1983. The making of the ‘Sugar Snap’ pea. Horticulture 61:14-15." unfortunately my library doesn't have access to this journal  Plant breeding reviews 21 has a paper on "Origin, history and Genetic Improvement of the Sugar Snap Pea " Again I don't have access but google books does. They say it has been around since at least the 19th century. A good read - might have to get it in from the library for some christmas reading T |
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Hawk
gopher
Posts: 22
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Post by Hawk on Nov 26, 2011 16:31:35 GMT -5
Good reads:) Thank you!
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Post by templeton on Nov 26, 2011 17:09:58 GMT -5
My crosses have finished for this season, the flowers are self pollinating too early. Despite Rebsie's advice about not trying for a summer F1 seed crop, I might put in a few seeds in the next few weeks. My initial crosses were 'wrong way' crosses (recessive pollen to dominant mother - can't pick successful crosses in the F1), so I have a few pods that I can play around with.
Might go and harvest them today for finishing off.
T
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Post by robertb on Nov 28, 2011 17:02:36 GMT -5
I treat Kent Blue as a sugar snap, and eat them after the peas have grown. It's an old variety, with mottled seeds which suggest it's 19th Century or earlier.
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Post by Joseph Lofthouse on Dec 2, 2011 23:56:14 GMT -5
My crosses have finished for this season, the flowers are self pollinating too early. Choose younger female blossoms.... If I open a blossom and it has already shed pollen I skip it and move on to younger blossoms. |
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Post by templeton on Dec 3, 2011 5:39:22 GMT -5
My crosses have finished for this season, the flowers are self pollinating too early. Choose younger female blossoms.... If I open a blossom and it has already shed pollen I skip it and move on to younger blossoms. They are too tiny for my fingers to manipulate, and for my eyes to see. T |
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Post by Joseph Lofthouse on Dec 3, 2011 11:46:55 GMT -5
I tried following the instructions that started this thread... I am much too ham-fingered to be doing surgical cuts on such small things.
So my current strategy is:
Rip the blossom apart. Rub some pollen on it that is still attached to another (older) torn apart blossom.
It helps with vision to do the pollination at noon on a sunny day. I have excellent vision, but magnifying glasses might help.
I rip the outer petals off as necessary to reach the keel petal which I pinch and press backwards towards the root. The inner parts pop right out of the bag.
If the anthers have any dusting of pollen on them at all I start over with another blossom. If the anthers are still immature, then it's flick-flick-flick with a finger or toothpick or knife to get rid of the anthers. (As a tool, I'm imagining a toothpick taped to a fingernail for next year.)
The father blossom is similarly torn apart to expose the pollen bearing anthers. It's then rubbed against the stigma/style.
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Post by keen101 (Biolumo / Andrew B.) on Dec 3, 2011 13:14:12 GMT -5
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Post by templeton on Dec 3, 2011 18:24:02 GMT -5
I use fine pointed curved tipped forceps - cheap copy of the expensive swiss dumont ones.
<http://www.entosupplies.com.au/popup_image_slides.phtml?path=1_3_8_796&image=1>
I like your approach Joseph. Might just give it a go, a few of my summer trial peas are already flowering - 31 days after sowing.
T
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Post by Joseph Lofthouse on Mar 28, 2012 1:49:41 GMT -5
Yesterday I planted (allegedly) F1 pea seed from crosses made last summer: I am working on a breeding project to develop red podded peas. Last summer I attempted to make two crosses: [♀purple soup pea X ♂ yellow snow pea] (3 seeds) and [♀ yellow snow pea X ♂ purple snap pea] (about 7 seeds). I didn't have proper germplasm for the first cross, because I had to bum blossoms from a neighbor whenever I wanted to do a cross. Then Holly sent seed for the second cross late in the season, and it matured under a bucket due to our later than average freezes last fall. So wee haa! Ten seeds to work with.
I planted the F1 seeds in my main field. I’m not expecting to get red pods until the F2 seed is grown out, but I may be able to see other phenotypic differences that let me know that the cross was successful. I also planted more of the mother and father seed so I’ll have something to compare to.
Long term I’d like to breed red and yellow; shelling peas, soup peas, and snap peas. I don’t care much for snow peas so I’m not intending on working much on them, though some will arise from this type of crossing.
This year I planted much more germplasm so I'll have plenty to work with, and I planted the rows 3 feet apart so it will be harder to lose hand pollinated seeds in a jumble of peas:
King Tut purple soup pea, G2 (used in 3 seeded cross)
Biskopens Purple seeded pea via Keen101
Sugar Magnolia via Holly (used in 7 seeded cross), also G2
Golden Sweet Edible Pod via Holly (used in 7 seeded cross)
Purple Snap pea via Jonna
Alberta Purple by Dr Evans via Babyboy
Sugar Snap
Sugar Snap II
I want to type more about all the clever things I planted on Monday. Too tired. I'll just say that it snowed in the morning, a 30 mile an hour wind blew in from the desert and dried the garden out by noon, so I could plant without gettting muddy, then I left when it started snowing again just before sunset. But I got everything planted that I could hope to have ready to harvest by opening day of the farmer's market.
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Post by diane on Apr 4, 2012 18:29:55 GMT -5
I've got a dozen or so snap peas and a few snows growing in pots so I can cross them.
They're about a metre high. No flowers yet, and whenever I peek inside some new
growth, there's just tendrils and baby leaves waiting to emerge.
What triggers flowering?
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Post by templeton on Apr 4, 2012 21:34:12 GMT -5
. What triggers flowering? Time? I'm waiting for my F1 purple, yellow and red snows and snaps to flower - they are a metre high, but not a flower bud in sight - keen to get the F2 seed sown before deep winter... T |
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Post by keen101 (Biolumo / Andrew B.) on Apr 5, 2012 2:33:44 GMT -5
I think they just grow to a certain size and their genetics tell them whether they should produce flowers or not. Taller varieties seem to flower later too, but i dont know for sure. But, i think it is somewhat dependent on the size of the plant and somewhat dependent on the variety. So yes, in a sense time could be right. |
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